The Lost Boulder, Arcadia, RI:
What it is the name of the V11 left hand version of Ground Zero and who did the FA? I was posting up beta pictures of the boulder in mountainproject yesterday and would like to see this listed. I presume it starts on the same low rail, works up to the sharp edge then shoots up and left to an edge and tops out. If the FAist would like to post it up, that would be great, also some action shots from the boulder would be cool.
Condition note - The blackflies are just coming out there, but the stone still felt good yesterday afternoon. If you want to get out there before the bugs get horrendous, I would suggest going right away and bringing spray. The trail from the pond to the fire road has overgrown, so you will have to bushwhack some, but the water is very low so no problem with the stream. I'll flag it if I go again.
I ran into Wickaboxet Management Area (RI) this afternoon to look for the Broken Moon boulder, a sweet 20 foot egg. I found it and a bunch more undeveloped ones. There is good stuff there. I can't wait to go back with a pad, brush and more time. The boulders are not near the main ledge. I grabbed a few photos and posted them up in MP http://www.mountainproject.com/v/rhode-island/106842810
I sent the sit to Treehugger (not sure of grade) and put up an alt finish to Hroom V5 on the Found boulder in Arcadia, RI yesterday. They are both good new problems. Somebody chalked the shit out of every hold on it and the Hudson Boulder and didn't bother to brush it off afterwards. Be considerate of the other users of the area and brush off the excess chalk when you are done there, please. Most of the other users are not climbers and the chalk bombing is kind of jarring.
Hey all, I wanted to let you know that I and another guy, Jeff, have been doing a bunch of cleaning and new routing down at Mt. Tom in southern RI. There is a ton of potential here. The area was more popular in the ‘80s when the Rhody Loadies would climb here, bouldering and top roping, but then it was left fallow mostly until Mike Golub, Dana and friends did a few things. Now that we all have pads, a lot of the short ledges are great for bouldering and highballing. If you are into rescrubbing old routes and putting up new ones, you should check it out. It is the second biggest and best area in RI, after LW and fairly close to the Lost Boulder. I have posted some info up on Mountainproject. I am concentrating on cleaning a bunch of easier stuff first, but there are all grades. Shoot me a message if you would like a tour or more information. With some work this will be a great alternative to LW.