M_Sprague

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  • M_Sprague The Lost Boulder, Arcadia, RI:
    What it is the name of the V11 left hand version of Ground Zero and who did the FA? I was posting up beta pictures of the boulder in mountainproject yesterday and would like to see this listed. I presume it starts on the same low rail, works up to the sharp edge then shoots up and left to an edge and tops out. If the FAist would like to post it up, that would be great, also some action shots from the boulder would be cool.

    Condition note - The blackflies are just coming out there, but the stone still felt good yesterday afternoon. If you want to get out there before the bugs get horrendous, I would suggest going right away and bringing spray. The trail from the pond to the fire road has overgrown, so you will have to bushwhack some, but the water is very low so no problem with the stream. I'll flag it if I go again.
    Apr 17 '12 · 5  
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    mjgiossi ty landman did the fa i dont know what its called though
    Apr 17 '12
    Jonahag Mark, it's a weird sorta squat/stand start that Ty Landman did. My buddy, who did ground zero and everything else with ease couldn't make a single move in prime conditions... might be real hard.

    P.S. You are a hero for finding/posting all the RI stuff.
    Apr 17 '12
    M_Sprague Hmm, I guess you or somebody else will have to post it up then. I can't figure out exactly where you are talking about. Maybe further left than I was thinking? If you know what the beta is and want to post, we could always call it the Landman route until we learn the real name. There is definitely a left hand finish to Ground Zero. I may be nuts, but I think a super hard line may go up the rounded arete between Finders Keepers and the right hand finish of Drive By.
    Apr 17 '12
  • captainmo Mount Katahdin - Anyone done any of the routes on the headwall?
    Apr 17 '12 · 5  
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    Edge I've been all over the headwall, but only during four winter trips. Amazing place!
    Apr 20 '12
    Jonahag A friend who goes up regularly told me they recently reworked some of the ridiculous rules that were trouble in the past. Sounds sort of epic!
    Apr 21 '12
    captainmo winter trips... geeze I bet that's freakin cold!!! Basically just looking for some recommendations / thoughts on how difficult a day of routes is? I would like to bring my girlfriend up a route or two while we're at Chimney Pond for 5 days... She's a 5.6/5.7 climber.
    Apr 30 '12
  • JoeM
    LT11
    Includes footage of a classic V11 in Connecticut.
    Apr 16 '12 · 71 
    bobs likes this
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    thatscandlepin This was pretty not that good. It was also pretty totally free. So, lose - win.
    Apr 17 '12
    M_Sprague It kind of makes me think I need to go get a haircut. The whole thing of trying to make a spectacle of yourself and be a rock star is so old. I'd rather just see a well filmed version of some friends saying 'hey, here is a great area and some cool boulder problems. Check 'em out'
    Apr 17 '12
    captainmo I'd rather just see a well filmed version of some friends saying 'hey, here is a great area and some cool boulder problems. Check 'em out'

    totally agree with that... im sure we've got plenty of new areas developed recently in the CT, RI, MA area to do a vid
    Apr 17 '12
  • Mar 24 '12
  • M_Sprague I ran into Wickaboxet Management Area (RI) this afternoon to look for the Broken Moon boulder, a sweet 20 foot egg. I found it and a bunch more undeveloped ones. There is good stuff there. I can't wait to go back with a pad, brush and more time. The boulders are not near the main ledge. I grabbed a few photos and posted them up in MP
    http://www.mountainproject.com/v/rhode-island/106842810
    Mountain Project: Climbing Rhode Island
    Mountain Project
    Mar 8 '12 · 51 
    joec likes this
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    brianc the two largest boulders were the one with Broken Moon (classic crapmypants v6 top out) and something else I can't remember just a short walk along the jeep road from Broken Moon (to looker's right of Broken Moon). scattered other boulders offered up some short problems. miss the box.
    Mar 9 '12
    M_Sprague You should come on down and refresh your memories. Dana posted up a few of the routes to start and I put directions to the Broken Moon and coordinates. The other boulders are basically running to the north from it. If you hunt that way you will run back in to the jeep trail (Welch Hollow rd), with a couple boulders on the east side of it.

    The parking on Welch Rd is really minimal, so if you have a posse, please try to carpool for the last bit or hike in from the main Wickaboxet parking (only 10 minutes more).

    I am going to try to get out there this weekend (not sure what day yet), but I also want to hit up a boulder in Arcadia to finish a project. If anyone wants to meet up, send me your phone # and I can let you know when I am going.
    Mar 9 '12
    M_Sprague The stuff on the Broken Moon boulder is haaard! Broken Moon is excellent and completely spanked me the other day. Also, if you are looking for a really hard (double digit) project in RI, this is a boulder to go too. Bring you sloper ability, power and crimp strength. Also bring a ladder and brushes to get the fine coating of lichen off.
    Mar 24 '12
  • Mar 20 '12
  • DSavoie So, went to Pway this weekend.
    Are the road closure in the park - leading to Boulder Natural parking - temporary or permanent ? Is the horse farm parking the only one ??

    Other topic: how is Mackenzie Pond ? Is everything free of ice/snow ?
    Mar 19 '12 · 2  
    M_Sprague Pway roads - Closed for mud season I believe
    Mar 20 '12
    vincentc Went to the gunks 2 weeks ago, conditions were great:) no snow on the ground. Same thing for McKenzie Pond last week-end. Almost a little hot for projects... I'm expecting Pway to be good this coming week-end.
    Mar 20 '12
  • Mar 16 '12
  • islandkid29 created new group
    New Hampshire Boulderers
    The super amazing boulderers of the granite state
    Total users: 11
    M_Sprague just joined
    Dec 23 '11 ·  1 
    travisd likes this
  • M_Sprague I sent the sit to Treehugger (not sure of grade) and put up an alt finish to Hroom V5 on the Found boulder in Arcadia, RI yesterday. They are both good new problems. Somebody chalked the shit out of every hold on it and the Hudson Boulder and didn't bother to brush it off afterwards. Be considerate of the other users of the area and brush off the excess chalk when you are done there, please. Most of the other users are not climbers and the chalk bombing is kind of jarring.
    Mar 16 '12 
  • Mar 11 '12
  • M_Sprague Escoheag -the Swamp Boulder
    Mar 10 '12 · 6  
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    Jonahag That looks like the high quality Lost Boulder rock! How's the left prow there???
    Mar 10 '12
    M_Sprague Yup, same quality rock as the Lost. The prow is Swamper, maybe V5 and the best line there I think.
    Mar 11 '12
    captainmo wow that place looks impressive Mark!
    Mar 12 '12
  • Mar 9 '12
  • M_Sprague Hey all, I wanted to let you know that I and another guy, Jeff, have been doing a bunch of cleaning and new routing down at Mt. Tom in southern RI. There is a ton of potential here. The area was more popular in the ‘80s when the Rhody Loadies would climb here, bouldering and top roping, but then it was left fallow mostly until Mike Golub, Dana and friends did a few things. Now that we all have pads, a lot of the short ledges are great for bouldering and highballing. If you are into rescrubbing old routes and putting up new ones, you should check it out. It is the second biggest and best area in RI, after LW and fairly close to the Lost Boulder. I have posted some info up on Mountainproject. I am concentrating on cleaning a bunch of easier stuff first, but there are all grades. Shoot me a message if you would like a tour or more information. With some work this will be a great alternative to LW.
    Feb 8 '12 · 71 
    joec likes this
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    captainmo BadAss Mark!!! u da man! If ur ever down in SW CT I'd be stoked to show you around some of the new bouldering areas around our way!
    Feb 9 '12
    Jonahag Back to the gayrage foo
    Feb 9 '12
    M_Sprague OK, after checking out more of the local stone this area is not the best, but there is a fair amount of good stuff. It's concentrated and is easy to get to
    Mar 9 '12
  • Mar 6 '12
  • vincentc created new group
    Quebec boulderers
    When the frenchies invade the boulderfield... Sorry ;)
    Total users: 3
    Mar 6 '12 · 1  
    M_Sprague We dont mind you frenchies. Just bring your hot women ;)
    Mar 6 '12
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