Bouldering in New York

The Gunks, New Paltz

      By now, most everyone has heard the hype surrounding the bouldering revolution at the Gunks; the renaissance of this old school, no bolts area. Well, the hype is all true. Most people who have visited the Gunks have sampled some of the bouldering along the Trapps while waiting for their chosen route to open up. This is just the beginning when it comes to bouldering here. Peter's Kill in Minnewaska State Park, just about a mile down the road from the Trapps parking lot, has tons of world class bouldering. 
     The Trapps provide northeast boulderers with their only opportunity to sample John Gill's mastery with The Gill Egg, V4, The Gill Pinch, V4, and Gill's Double Clutch, V4. Remember when you try these problems that Gill climbed them in the early 1960s! Other classics at the Trapps include New Pair of Glasses, V7, The Illustrious Buddha, V10, and for those willing to walk a little bit, The Boxcar Traverse, V5.
     Although there are cliffs which appear to have some good routes, Peter's Kill is essentially a bouldering-only area. Most of the problems here were featured in Big Up, Josh Lowell's excellent video on bouldering at the Gunks. There are many classic problems here including Silence, V9, and The Hop, V7, on the Outbreak Boulder, Mad Lion, V6, Mentos, V4, Tiger Style, V7, Out of the Frying Pan, V6, and Lightening Blade, V1. For more information, check out Gunks.com  which includes tons of information about the gunks.

Central Park, New York City

    There are several boulders in Central Park that have worthwhile bouldering, including Rat Rock and the Worthless Boulder. ClimbNYC.com includes a discussion group for NY City climbers and now has an online guide to Central Park.

Niagara Glen, Ontario, Canada

      Although technically not in New York proper, Niagara Glen is just across the Niagara River from the New York/Canada border and is the local bouldering area for Buffalo residents. The boulders here consist of limestone blocks and include all types of terrain. Check out Peter Millard's awesome web site for more details.

The Adirondacks

      There is a really good bouldering area off of McKenzie Pond Road between Lake Placid and Saranac Lake. Click here for a slideshow and guide.

Reportedly, there is also good bouldering visible from the road beneath Chapel Pond Slab near Keene Valley. There are also boulders at Poke-o-Moonshine, many waiting to be developed. If you have any other info on 'Dacks bouldering, please e-mail us.

Beach Boulders, East Marion

      Chris Ortiz has developed a couple of cool looking boulders on the beach in East Marion, on the northeastern end of Long Island. The first picture below is Chris climbing on the Big Boy boulder, which has ten completed problems and many projects. The second photo below is Chris on the Little Boy boulder, which has a few cool problems. To get to these boulders, go to the beach at the end of Rocky Point road in East Marion. Chris also told us that there are other boulders in the area.

Moss Island

      Andy Salo tells us that there is some good bouldering here. To get to the boulders take the Little Falls exit on the New York Thruway. Drive straight down the road alongside the river. Just before crossing a bridge pull of to the left and park. Walk up and over the lock to a cliff and various boulders. There are more good boulders over the top of the cliff. To get to the cave , continue driving over the bridge and make a left. At a traffic light, make another left down a dirt road. Continue until you can pull of up a road towards the railroad tracks. A cave should be visible.

Disclaimer

Bouldering is dangerous. You could be seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com does not assume any liability for your safety or well being.