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Bouldering News-June
2000 |
6/26/00 Lincoln Woods, RI
John "Whitey"
McLean has added a new problem to the Betty Boulder in The Alcove area near
the 9C/Goat Rock toprope area. His problem, Ride the Clutch, traverses
from a sit start at the prominent crack to the left around the corner and
up to a difficult topout. John was hesitant to rate the problem, but locals
who have worked the end moves believe it may check in around V8. In
other woods news, Marc Sprague and Ward Smith completed the likely
first boulder ascents of Blacksmith at the Lost Crag. This 5.11+ish
toprope route stands at about 20 feet high with a series of gritty open-handed
holds near the top. Immediately to the right of this problem is a
rarely-attempted, super-hard project just waiting to be sent. A hold
recently broke off of the start of Due Diligence on the Tuoloumne
boulder returning Due Diligence and Barbed Wire to project
status (e-mail us if
you send either of these problems in their current state). The left crimp
snapped (accidentally) as one local worked on a dyno project on this boulder.
A smaller crimp remains, but has likely increased the difficulty of these
two problems by one or two V-grades. This hold may have been damaged by a
forest fire in this area this past spring. The fire also affected the Yosemite
Boulder, but luckily only a small foot hold on one problem was
affected. |
6/26/00 Peter's Kill, NY
Anja Presson
and Chris Gosling found a new boulder at Peter's Kill this past weekend.
The boulder is located at the base of the tunnel to Happy Land, and sort
of looks like a car. They sent one problem on the side of the boulder
facing away from the cliffs. It starts on slopers and a good foothold, on
your right (when facing the cliff) and traverses left on slopers and small
crimps to jugs. Finish by grabbing a good side pull and topping out on the
lichen -covered left arete. The problem is called '67 Chevy and goes
at V3, and the boulder is called the Autoboulder. |
6/6/00 Rumney, NH
Proving that
his previous sends were not a fluke, Joe Kinder redpointed his third 5.14
this past weekend. It took him 12 days to send Supernova on the Starship
Crag. Joe thinks that the route may be .14b because it felt way harder than
Parallel Universe, a .14a he recently redpointed, however, officially
he would only say that the route is .14a or b. Joe has set his sights on
China Beach and is training like mad for a trip out west with Luke
"Gomez" Parady. |
6/5/00 Bradley Mountain, CT
Before heading
out to Montana for the summer, Dave Theriault sent Connecticut's first V10
at Bradley Mountain (CT's best access-challenged bouldering area). Dave named
the problem Hep Cat. A few weeks later, world-traveller Matt Wilder
visited Bradley and repeated several of Dave's V9s there, and confirmed the
grades. |
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Disclaimer
Bouldering is dangerous. You could be
seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described
in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com
does not assume any liability for your safety or well
being. |
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