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Bouldering
News |
12/28/00 Pioneer Valley, MA
Dave Graham visited Farley today and quickly
repeated many of the existing testpieces, including flashing Big and
sending Brick Bop in a couple of tries. Dave thought both of
these problems were around V8. Dave also sent a project which had been dubbed
the "Slashface project" for it's resemblance to the Fred Nicole Hueco testpiece.
Dave named the problem Scarub and said it is probably V10. Dave also
visited Happy Valley and the Hideaway, adding a sit start to Press Your
Luck, V10, and sending the Y2K Roof, also
V10. |
12/27/00 Pawtuckaway, NH
Joe Kinder, just a few short days from heading
out to Bishop, did the second ascent (after falling off the last move three
times) of Chunk O Blitz, V12, at Pawtuckaway. Joe said this is the
hardest problem he has done. |
12/27/00 Lincoln Woods, RI
Home from Colorado for Christmas break, Jesse
Marsolais sent Busy Child, V8, at Lincoln Woods in four tries. Now,
some might not consider this newsworthy, but one short year ago Jesse's personal
best was V4. Amazing what a semester in Boulder can do for your crimp strength.
Wonder how his grades are doing? |
12/22/00 Pawtuckaway, NH
Dave Graham did the second ascent of Tim Kemple's
new problem, Stand and Deliver, at the Blair Woods area of
Pawtuckaway and confirmed the V10 rating. Dave also added a new V9 on a roof
behind Chunk O Blitz called Dome Piece. Finally, before the
snow blanketed the area, Joe Kinder did the sit start to Check Your
Head, solid V10. |
12/21/00 Western Massachusetts
Previously unreported from this fall, here are
some noteworthy sends from the Hideaway and Happy Valley bouldering areas.
Brett Myers did the second ascent of Todd Bradley's v8 up the middle of the
Millennium boulder, Jason Danforth did the second ascent (since the lip jug
broke) of Y2K Roof, V10. Lisa Pierce sent , For Everyone Else
V5, on the right side of the Millennium boulder. Jason Danforth and Tim Kemple
also made the first ascent of "the sloper project" on the left side of the
Magic Bean boulder. Together, they unlocked some new beta to send Love
Supreme, in the cold crisp conditions v8, most of the time v9. Tim also
did the first ascent of a tiered roof, Swisher Sweets, V10,
on a buttress left of the Y2K roof, and the "easing looking problem
up the middle of the bean." Press Your Luck, V10, starts on the obvious
sloper in the middle of the bean, tic tacks on small edges if you want and
then jump for the slopey top, traverse the lip and then do the v7 top out.
Jason and Pete Ward also made the second and third ascents of Book of
Names, a high ball v5 on the Sleeping Giant boulder. |
12/20/00 Fontainebleau, France
As reported on
PlanetMountain.com,
here is Dave Graham's tick list from his 45 days at Fontainebleau:
7c (V9): Michel Ange, Hipotese, Infidele, Eclipse, L’Abbè
Resina, Aerodinamite, Tristesse, Envie d’ailes
7c (V9): flash Big Boss, Alta, L’arrache coeur.
7c+ (V10): Antithese, Balance, T-REX, Sale gosse, L’oeil de
la Sibille, Big Golden, Fourmis Rouge
8a (V11): Hyper tension, Atresie, Karma
8a (V11): flash C’etait demain
8a+ (V12): The Maxx, Partenaire particulier (first repeat after 10
years), L’integrale
8b (V13): Fatman, Gourmandise (first repeat after 5 years).
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12/10/00 Pawtuckaway, NH
Brett Myers put all his dyno practice to good
use this past weekend, grabbing the second ascent of Dave Graham's Rat
Fish Dyno at Pawtuckaway. Brett used slightly different beta than Dave
and thought the problem was probably V11. Brett also said that he thinks
that Ken Majka's Brick Bop at Farley is about the same difficulty
as the Rat Fish Dyno, the way he did it, and somewhat harder the way
Ken did it. Also at Pawtuckaway this weekend, Luke Parady and Adam Osterhoff
sent Blaow and thought that in the cooler weather it was probably
V10. Adam sent this problem in an impressive five or six tries. Luke also
did the third ascent of Uncle Climax, V9, and did the sit start to
Check Your Head, V10. Luke, Brett, Adam, and Joe Kinder threw themselves
at Tim Kemple's new problem, Stand and Deliver with little
success. |
12/5/00 Pawtuckaway, NH
Tim Kemple squeezed in a quick, but productive
bouldering session at Pawtuckaway today between classes at UNH. Tim sent
a project at a new section of Pawtuckaway that Tim and Brett Myers began
working this past summer. The problem, Stand and Deliver, V10, climbs
a 15 foot high arete. Tim says, "...the moves are soooo awesome. Its
both aesthetic and super fun to climb." Tim said he is super close to sending
Dave Graham's Rat Fish Dyno, V11+, having fallen off after sticking
the dyno and having both hands matched on the lip. Joe Kinder, of the hot
new Ropegun ad, is also very close to sending Check Your Head,
V10. |
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Disclaimer
Bouldering is dangerous. You could be
seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described
in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com
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