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Bouldering
News |
11/24/01 Rumney, NH
This past Wednesday, Joe Kinder sent Satan
on a Halfshell Variant and did the second ascent of Land Shark,
which is an extension to Jerrys Traverse, V7, first done by Dave Graham.
About this problem, Joe said, "I have never worked so hard and long on a
boulder problem as I did on Land Shark. It is surely one of my hardest
and greatest sends. It took me 9 or 10 days of work and lots of pain and
blood. The holds on the problem are quite strange and some are hard to figure
out how to hold. In the beginning, it took me 2 days to figure out the last
move of the crux and then the beta totally changed and evolved over time.
It probably changed like 4 times to boil down to a heal-toe and a big ass
move out left to a good side pull. The problem is around 25 hand movements."
Joe felt this problem was probably V12. The Satan on a Halfshell
Variant is the original way the problem went when John Sherman first
climbed it. He climbed it when the crux hold was a jug, now it is an edge
with a strange angle. This old problem goes up an obvious big sidepull and
then does some tick tacking to the left. The original old way goes straight
up. Joe says the variation is "more pure but not as good as the other way.
Definitely harder. The normal way is felt by most to be solid V10 and is
one of the greatest problems in New England. Totally one of the best problems
I have ever done. It's kinda like the Mandala of Rumney to me. However, the
Variant is significantly harder." Joe thought the variant was V11.
Joe Kinder on Landshark, V12. Photograph
by Brian Post.
Check out wildrays.com
for more of Brian's photos. |
11/18/01 Great Barrington,
Massachusetts
Parking at Great Barrington is growing more
precarious due to recent home development on the switchback. Once the home
is purchased all the parking at the switchback must stop. Before any access
problems arise, local developers are asking that everyone park at the school
off East street, shuttling people and pads at the top of the switchback.
Access has been secure for over a year and we do not want to endanger this
resource as well. GB is a great place and climbers can't afford to loose
another area to crowds and parking problems. |
11/15/01 Farley, Massachusetts
With the explosive popularity of bouldering at
access sensitive areas in Western Mass, a group of concerned climbers and
boulderers are forming the Western Mass Climbers Coalition. While a mission
statement and formal organization are in the early phase of development,
the pressing access issue at Farley Ledges has prompted the group to ask
for a voluntary cessation of bouldering at this area for the time being.
Recent reports have land owners threatening to stop all bouldering activity
at Farley. The Group is asking that people seek out the other fine areas
with secured access for the time being (Pawtuckaway, The Gunks, Lincoln Woods,
Rumney) until some negotiations and dialogue can be created between landowners,
local government, and the climbers. Progress is expected to be slow, but
it is hoped that by next season access to this fine area will be secured.
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11/15/01 Pawtuckaway, NH
Some great new problems have been put up at the
Blair Woods at Pawtuckaway, lots of moderates as well as some awesome hard
problems. One boulder in particular, the Method Boulder has yielded several
classics including Rio Rose's Fuck the Method, V7, Jeremy Johnson's
Crystal Meth, V9, and Check the Method, V8 around the corner,
and Tim Kemple's Expanding Man, V9. |
11/12/01 Western Massachusetts
Locals are requesting that all climbers respect
a voluntary ban on bouldering at the new Bear Mountain area. Locals
are working on access to this new area, and hope to have the details finalized
soon. Also, if you are visiting Farley and the parking lot near the trailhead
is full, please park down at the cabin on Route 2. Parking in the streets
is not acceptable. Also, keep the noise down, drive slowly, and don't
hang out in the parking area. The landowner is graciously allowing the use
of his land, please act respectfully at all times. |
11/3/01 Utah and Colorado
Dave Graham been on fire out west the last couple
of weeks. First, according to Rock & Ice, Dave did the first ascent of
Colorado's hardest boulder problem (he also did the now second hardest).
The problem, Circadian Rhthym is a super-powerful line at Poudre Canyon.
Check out
www.rockandice.com
for all the details. Next, the guys at
Sterling Rope tells
us that Dave send Ice Cream, 5.14c, at American Fork in Utah. Dave
had worked the route twice previously both in the summer when conditions
were poor. This time he had great conditions and sent the route. |
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Disclaimer
Bouldering is dangerous. You could be
seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described
in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com
does not assume any liability for your safety or well
being. |
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