- December 2000
- November 2000
- October 2000
- September 2000
- August 2000
- July 2000
- June 2000
- May 2000
- April 2000
- March 2000
- February 2000
- January 2000
- 1999

Updated 1/27/01

Bouldering News

1/9/01 Bishop, CA
     I know, you're sick of hearing about the crew out in Bishop, but the news just keeps getting better. Bouldering.com is reporting that Dave Graham has done the first ascent of a V12/13 at the Lydia Boulders (aka The Pollen Grains) in the Buttermilks (see the photo below). Mick Ryan of Rockfax had included this line in a feature he did on Bishop's Hardest Problems-The Future which listed many hard projects in Bishop. Rockfax said of  Dave new problem (no word on the name yet), "It's like a longer and more aesthetic Dominator - but harder."

1/9/01 Lincoln Woods, RI
     Taking the reverse trip of most New Englanders, Chris Ryan headed east from Colorado for his Christmas break and has been bouldering strong at Lincoln Woods. First, Chris notched his first V10 by sending Conquest of the Irrational on the Fred Boulder, then stepped it up a notch by grabbing the third ascent of Sewing Up Avenues with Power Moves on the Swamp Thing boulder. Although rated the same as Conquest, Chris thought SUAPM was harder. 

1/8/01 Bishop, CA
     Even more news of Team New England in Bishop. Tim Kemple has sent Toxic Avenger and Slowdance, both V10, Joe Kinder sent Toxic Avenger, and Jason Danforth sent Lounge Lizards, V11. Sounds like the boys are ripping it up out west, keep representing guys.

Dave Graham working on a hard project for Josh Lowell's camera at the Lydia Boulders in Bishop, CA.
Photograph by Bouldering.com's Tom Klinefelter.

1/4/01 Bishop, CA
     Most of the strongest boulderers in New England have escaped the snow and ice and have descended upon Bishop. One of our correspondents dropped us a line to give us some of the early news out of Bishop. Dave Graham flashed, and Joe Kinder and Luke Parady sent Acid Wash, V10; Dave, Luke, and Matt Wilder flashed, and Joe and Jason Danforth sent Therapy, V9; Matt flashed and Dave sent Toxic Avenger, V10; Joe did Beautiful Gecko, V10; Luke did Center Direct, V9; Matt sent He Got Game, V9/10; and Jason sent Moonraker, America's Fit Homeless, and Soul Slinger, all V9s. And, perhaps most impressive, Ken Majka sent America's Fit Homeless with his injured shoulder. Stay tuned for more news from the boys out west. 

1/3/01 Great Barrington, MA
Chris Fowler wrote us with this summary of the 2000 bouldering season at Reservoir Rocks in Great Barrington, MA. Bouldering in the Reservoir has slowed in the last year as the majority of choice lines were snapped up in the 1999 season. Dan Mahoney started the 2000 winter season (the Reservoir is generally south facing with minimal tree cover) off with a bang by sending Kim Novak (V9/V10) on the Snooze Button Boulder. This 25-foot tall problem is the peerless accompaniment to his first creation at the Reservoir, Snooze Button (Solid V5 on flawless stone to the crux finish highstep). Not one to rest on his laurels, Dan made a cursory scrub job and sent The Big One (V4) in a mild rain shower. The Big One was wet, dirty and cold when Dan pulled off the ground. Ten minutes later he was making chalk paste on the large slopers at 30 feet. Launching onto the slab, Dan was fully on his own-Dr. Chris had walked away to let destiny unfold. Five minutes later he was shaking uncontrollably as endorphins and adrenaline dumped into his system-his fine motor control was shot as he attempted to light his Nate Sherman while recounting the sensation of sketching at 35 feet.

Still in highball mode, Dan headed 70 yards right to the Phen-Fen Boulder where he stole away with the first ascent of the Hump Back (V3). Dr. Chris had scrubbed the top that morning, but did not feel confident and so yielded to Mahoney. The common finish to many problems on this boulder ends with a crack traverse that avoids about 12 feet of overhanging stone-at 15 feet off the deck the crack traverse is still exciting, but now seems unimpressive when the Hump Back offers a thrilling alternative. A week later Dr. Chris added a tall, sporting line on The Phen-Fen Boulder with The Big Payback (V6). This steep thin line to the right of Beer Glutton (V3) is packed with excitement - bring 5 crash pads if you are solid at this grade, more if you are not. Late spring saw Dr. Chris fight through weakness and snapping foot chips to add The Filter (V9) to a long list of high and hard problems on this wall (Phen-Fen V7; Tic Magnet V8; (Fresh like a box of) Crispy Creams V8; The Debaser V8; The Echo V9). If you think this Boulder is tapped out, think again-a 15-foot long (V-hard) traverse has yet to be tacked onto the Filter that could easily send this problem into double digits. Then the Real highball awaits-dead center of the Phen-Fen has Tic Magnet to a shakeout at the crack, then 15 more feet climbing on small slopes with big reaches between. Right: Josh Spear on the Phen-Fen boulder. Photograph by Dan Mahoney.

The Prow Boulder's canopy of pines provided shade in late spring to make the full ascent of The Expanding Probe (V9/10) possible. Dan Mahoney sent this steep dynamic problem several years ago as a jump start (V7), but a new understanding of gravity (or rather an illusion of low gravity days) convinced Dr. Chris that a sit start with a long dyno to a small sloping edge could add quality to the already amazing line. Five consecutive dynos created this line of strength up the center of the boulder. Finally, he added the Fatback Linkup (V6) completing the Prow Boulders 9 steep problems. Dan Mahoney added the Ill Egg (V6) to a stand-alone boulder opposite of the Prow, then added the frightening slab highball (V3) 20 yards away.

Visiting climbers this spring added several problems starting with Adam Osterhoff's Green Goddess (V7) at the Spak Boulder. This completed the boulder's straight-up problems, which include two new highballs Bird of Spray (V4) and Sister Midnight (V3). Visiting climbers Joe McLoughlin and Lee Soars opened local eyes and minds to the possibilities on the front side of the Speed Boulder as they pulled off the ground and slapped for higher holds on this 50-degree overhanging face. The first problem added was BIG BIG LOVE (V8) a natural sit start and the closest thing to a pure Heuco power problem. Next came Dan Mahoney's Danger Bird (V4). These are just the beginning to a boulder that already sports a 35-foot long V9/V10 and an equally long V7.

The easy side of the Speed Boulder. Photograph by Dan Mahoney.

Uphill from the Speed Boulder, Dr. Chris added Cabin Boy (V4), the Illustrious Booty (V4), Yo Mamma (V4), and most recently Yo Daddy (V9). In the zone above the Erkinen boulder, Ward Smith added The Mantler (V5), an unusually short but exciting roof to a crux mantle problem. A second pitch mantle awaits an ascent. Further down the trail the strong young Josh Spear added a perfect cave problem (V9) behind Dan's The Monkey (V5). Finally Chris Burman added a hard arête problem (V8) to the Opptemater Boulder after grabbing the second ascent of the Bump (V8) on the nearby Spak Boulder.

Downhill from the Spak lies the Erkinen Boulder where Dr. Chris added the power problem, Plush (V9) during a cold snap in May, then added the painful Ugly (V8) in late fall. Both problems come out of the low cave on the uphill side of the boulder. A much harder project in the same cave awaits strong fingers. On the dark side of this behemoth boulder, Chris Calvert added Yuhoozebuh (V1) while Dr. Chris added Lord Calvert (V5) to the right of the offwidth crack. On the front side Dr. Chris added Dellwood (V8) to bring the count on this boulder to 15 independent lines.

Just behind the Erkinen Boulder, Chris Calvert and Dr. Chris opened the cluster of steep boulders in the South Park Area. These easy but fun problems were added during the warm fall temps. Dr. Chris started with Ass Farmer (V6), then added Ass Master (V6), Fat Ass (V3), Cartman (V3), Mr. Hat (V2), Mr. Twig (V3) and Chef (V4). Chris Calvert added Cheesy Poofs (V0) while Jason Cross added TIMMY!! (V1) and the immediate classic Scuzzlebutt (V5). The potential for one hard, beautiful problem starts on a 50-degree roof with rounded slopers leading to low friction slaps just above the roof that (theoretically) can be linked to the thin start holds of Ass Master.

As cold weather set in and snow began piling up in the mountains, the regular weekend crowd thinned to solitary bouldering. Parallel to South Park rests the Squirrel Boulder, a compact overhanging block with several classic problems including Mad Squirrel (V7) and Squirrel Style (V5). In perfect winter conditions Dr. Chris added Earl the Squirrel (V8) but suffered miserably on a project that will traverse the entire block for someone with the requisite ape index and matching strength. During the same frigid weekend he bushwhacked into the Satellite Boulder. This rock sits low in the valley and has been passed daily without much notice for the better part of four years because it was considered a last resort when all the fresh problems had been ticked. Dismissing this boulder was a big mistake-Unlike most boulders in the area it required no scrubbing and is bullet hard orange and black stone. In one afternoon Dr. Chris sent the Satellite Crack (V5) and Apollo 13 (V8) and then scoped out 8 more lines-all quality bouldering with potential for hardness.

One line stands alone as a lesson in respecting the dangers of climbing on unexplored rock. An easy roof problem sat waiting for an eager climber to jug out the four-foot roof then dyno for the top-the only problem was the 600 pound detached block in the roof that created the jugs. As Dr. Chris and Jason Cross gingerly stepped around the widow-maker, an eager new boulderer grabbed a horn of rock and gave it a good yank (while standing directly in the fall line). The charmed young man managed to shift the massive stone without sending it onto himself. The next week Jason returned and dislodged the stone in less than 15 seconds. Now safely prepped, the cresting wave of rock awaits a FA.

In mid-December Jason and Dr. Chris stood amidst the rubble and snow at the Satellite boulder trying to warm enough to attempt the wave. They discussed the recent discovery of fresh bouldering in nearby states and began lamenting the uncertainty of discovering a new quality area when both spied some squat boulders on the next ridge. With no excitement (many tempting boulders are worthless due to ridiculous landings on the steep ridges) the two hiked the West Ridge and discovered 10 boulders in a 50-yard radius, some steeper and taller than the brilliant Speed Boulder. Just when the area seems tapped out, the Reservoir yields a little more. Or will it give a lot more? The ridge runs for at least a half-mile and only 50 yards were scoped before the rain started falling in earnest.

1/1/01 Bradley Mountain, CT
     Dave Theriault managed to squeeze in one minute of bouldering on Friday, just enough time to do the first ascent of Born Invincible, V10, on the Homefront Boulder at Bradley Mountain. Dave described the line as "a beautiful sixteen foot high overhanging arete, with a nasty little crimp move, and sustained effort to the top, which was a little snowy and scary." Dave added that this may be the moderate line (!) on this boulder. 

Disclaimer

Bouldering is dangerous. You could be seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com does not assume any liability for your safety or well being.