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Bouldering
News |
10/21/01 Bradley Mountain, CT
Dave Theriault sent Busted Shadow, V12,
at Bradley Mountain on October 16, 2001. The problem, which Dave worked for
over a year, starts at the right end of the Graffitti Wall traverse, and
traverses the rest of the way across to the right side of the huge overhang
via increasingly harder moves. A precise sideways dyno to a half pad three
finger crimp, is followed by a big lock off to a flake higher in the roof.
At this point, your body is completely sideways, and you basically have to
fall off and catch an undercling pinch on the way by, as your feet "helicopter"
a full 720 degrees. This move is so low percentage that Dave's last twenty
burns ended spinning off this move and on to the pads. If you hit it, you
paste a foot on and go again to the arete which forms the right side of the
boulder, and then do a few v2 moves to the top. Dave said "Shorter but with
much harder moves than Super Hepcat, its neighbor on the same boulder, Busted
Shadow is both the hardest and absolute coolest problem I have ever
done." |
10/3/01 Cathedral Ledge, NH
Dave Sharatt sent Edge of the World, 13c,
today at Cathedral after a few days of toprope rehearsals. Tim Kemple sent
a new climb he cleaned to the left of Tourist Treat. It is an independent
line, 130 feet or so long, with 2 bolts and the rest trad gear. Tim named
it Bamboozled, and said it is 5.12d or 5.13a. Tim said he doesn't
think its 'R' but some people may disagree. He said there are definitely
some 5.11 R/X sections though, and that it is three stars for sure. |
10/2/01 Rumney, NH
This past weekend, Joe Kinder sent his nemesis
Barracuda, 13d, becoming the fifth climber to do so, and fellow Portland
posse member Nate Kimble sent Cote D’Azure, 13b, and added a
new link up Rogue Wave also 13b. Eliza Spracher sent Kundalini,
12d, after her recent spree of 13a's. She hooked up Butt Bongo, her
first 13a, and she did Bottom Feeder, also 13a, last week. Finally,
after John Mallory's accident of hitting a slab in California, he sent his
first 13a, Tin Monkey. |
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Disclaimer
Bouldering is dangerous. You could be
seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described
in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com
does not assume any liability for your safety or well
being. |
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