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Bouldering
News |
9/17/01 Rumney, NH
This past weekend Joe Kinder did the coveted
second ascent of China Beach, 5.14b. Here is the whole story. On Thursday,
Tim Kemple and Joe went up to do shoot some photos. They did the photos and
then had a chance to do some climbing. Joe threw up a TR on China Beach
because Tim was psyched to try it as well. Tim got distracted, and wanted
to try Open Project, a rad 13c. They both sent on their second try.
Tim had tried it a bunch before but Joe hadn't. Joe said the route,
"...was dope. A very good route of bouldery quality.
The next day, Joe met up
with Erik Mushial. They went up and Erik tried Dodge the Lemons and
Joe gave China Beach a go on TR. Joe said, "I was anticipating it
to be crazy hard and not feel as good as it did. To my surprise it felt really
good, and I knew I would send soon. The second go...I sent it on TR. What
the hell man, I was kind of pissed because I wasn't leading it and I was
on TR. Wack, I thought. All I had to do now was lead it." The next day Joe
warmed up slowly. He said he felt a little tired being 3rd day on at Rumney.
So, he waited for the sun to leave and waited and waited. He said he couldn't
wait anymore, and thought "I am just going to try it." The sun was on it
but the air was very dry and it wasn't that hot. So, Joe went up it and felt
in total control. He said, "I was fully in that zone. You know, I climbed
it how I wanted to climb it. I kept going and just went to the top."
Joe offered these climbing
words of advice, "Climbing is soooooo mental. I have learned many things
in the past year. I feel like my mind in a climbing essence has matured a
lot. I understand movement better and what must be done and how. I have learned
lots from myself....not necessarily from others. I found that I am a lot
more in tune with my body. Mind over matter, man. Thats my word. Last year
I went through a lot on that route. The stress, joy, psych, frustration,
disappointment. All the emotions you get when you try a hard route. It all
comes down to getting to the top. That is what we all strive for. That is
the feeling that I desire more than anything...and it is all the more pleasing
and sweet when you work hard for it. I know that China Beach is not
the hardest in the country or the hardest thing at all. It was personal for
me. No one else...just me. It was hard for me and was something I had to
do. Perseverance comes through. We can all climb anything we want man. We
just have to want it."
Joe working on China Beach last year. Photograph
by Tim Kemple. |
9/17/01 Farley, MA
This was quite a weekend at Farley. On Friday,
Joel Brady, visiting with a crew from Pittsburgh managed to climb Babies
with Rabies, V11 in 3 tries in damp conditions. The next day, he did
the first ascent of the amazing Stereogram V10/11. The traveled climber
went on to remark that it was one of the top 5 problems that he had ever
been on. This was after nonchalantly flashing Dope and Spare
Change, both V8; and easily sending Terrordactyl, V8. He then
went on to put up another V10 called Because Stone Cold Says So, which
involves a sick egyptian with a 6 foot left hand move to a razor crimp sidepull
on a 45 degree wall. Also of note, Brett Myers dynoed Brickbop, V10
again making it look super easy. Then he fell off the last hold of Babies
with Rabies. Finally, Joel Wolpert managed to lift his butt off the ground
and almost snagged the second ascent of The Machine, V12. |
9/17/01 Rumney, NH
On August 27, 2001, Canadian Canardo Fragila
made the possible second ascent of The Devastating Reverend Tom at
the Pound Boulders at Rumney. |
9/16/01 Bradley Mountain, CT
Last weekend, Dave Theriault linked The
Hepcat, steep V10+ crimps out a roof for twelve feet, into Fools
Gold, a V7 that started on the jug that Hepcat finishes on, and
then powered out more steep rock to tricky and balancy highball moves out
a bulge to finish at about twenty five feet. All in all, Super Hepcat
is about twenty moves long, overhangs a ton, and checks in perhaps at V12.
Dave says this is "definitely the hardest problem I have ever done, and a
good deal harder than any V11 I have ever been on." |
9/14/01 Rumney, NH
Maryland-native Matt Bosley made an appointment
with Dr. No .14a on September 7 and 8. Conditions were horrible mid
80's and high humidity. After working out all the moves on the first day,
he waited until the evening sun left the rock and the temps cooled. First
try of the second day, he nearly sent the route only to be turned away by
the good doctor at the lip encounter. Psyched at his near success he rested,
and then walked the route next try topping out with no further appointments
necessary in less than 7 tries. Too bad he didn't have a week or two to spend
in Rumney. -from Ben Montgomery |
9/11/01 Lincoln Woods, RI
This past Saturday, over 70 climbers volunteered
their time and efforts to clean up trash and broken glass from around the
boulders and trails of Lincoln Woods. The volunteers gathered an impressive
pile of trash and did an amazing job of removing the broken glass from many
areas, especially Goat Rock. Many of the park rangers expressed their amazement
at how much trash was gathered. Afterwards, a raffle with prizes donated
by newenglandb- ouldering.com, boulderinggear.com, and the Rhode Island Rock
Gym raised $200 for the Access Fund. The volunteers then enjoyed a great
afternoon of bouldering, spraying, and fun. |
The whole group with the pile of trash. Photograph courtesy of
boulderinggear.com. |
The drawing of the raffle tickets.
Photograph courtesy of
vzero.net. |
Cleaning up the large amounts of broken glass
at the base of Goat Rock. Photograph courtesy of
vzero.net. |
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9/2/01 Rumney, NH
Joe Kinder made the first ascent, since a key
hold broke, of They Died Surfing. Joe thought this route, formerly
rated 5.13b, was now 5.13d. Joe also did the second ascent of Dodge the
Lemons, a route Dave Graham recently sent to the left of Tunafish
is Ludicrous on the Waimea cliff. Joe thought this route, which has a
bouldery start and a burly traverse on slopers, warranted a grade of
5.13d/14a. |
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Bouldering is dangerous. You could be
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