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Updated 9/11/01

Bouldering News

8/29/01 Great Barrington, MA
 
    Dave Theriault managed to add two moves to Josh Spear's Fotowa, which is probably V11 from the new lowest start. On the Speed Boulder, Dan Yagmin did the second ascent of the Chris Fowler problem to the left of Big Big Love, which he felt was V8. Dave also did Big Big Love in a few tries.

8/29/01 Farley Ledge, MA
 
    Tim Kemple recently added a new V11 to Farley's growing list of testpieces. Babies with Rabies climbs for nearly a dozen moves out the underbelly of this massive boulder, and tops out.

8/29/01  Pawtuckaway, NH
 
    Tim Kemple recently completed the third ascent of Dave Graham's Back at You with Realness, V11, and added two new problems to the Ride the Lightning boulder: The Glass Blower, V7, starts just to the right of the extended start to Ride the Lightning but instead traverses a crack rightwards, and The Three Graces, V6, starts the same as Ride the Lightning but climbs straight up. Brett Myers also  sent a new problem called The Gun Show, V7, which has quickly become a very popular problem. Vzero caught Brett's FA on video, click here to check it out.

8/29/01 Rumney, NH
 
    Some previously unreported sends at Rumney: Adam Osterhoff, before jetting off to Colorado to begin college, sent Parallel Universe, 5.14a, and Tunafish is Ludacrious, 5.13c, and Nate Kimble sent Cold War, 5.14a.

8/18/01 Salt Lake City, UT
 
    The Pusher Open, the first of three Professional Climbing Association competitions in the 2001/2002 season, took place at the new Front Climbing Gym in Salt Lake City this weekend. In the men's division it was no surprise as Chris Sharma took first place, while the strong Brit Malcolm Smith took second, and Frenchman Stephane Julien took third. For the women, Frenchwomen Myriam Matteau and Liv Sansoz put their World Cup experience to good use taking first and second, while Lisa Rands took third. Check out the PCA's website for the full results, and ClimbXMedia for full coverage of the event.


Chris Sharma climbing strong towards a win in the first PCA comp.
Photograph by Alexandre Gerrits and courtesy of Dr. Topo.com.

8/16/01 Massachusetts and New Hampshire
 
    Justin Bourque has had a great summer vacation while home from college in Arizona. He managed to send Brick Bop, V10, at Farley, Oobleck, V10, at Wendell Road, and Back at You with Realness, V11, at Pawtuckaway.

8/3/01 Europe
 
    It is one thing to send hard routes at your home crag where you can wait to get into your comfort zone for the big send. It is quite different to be away from home in an atmosphere where you can rarely be comfortable, and yet still manage to send hard routes. Dave Graham has just returned home from what has to be one of the most successful roadtrips ever. He left with big goals, and comes home with even higher achievements. Dave sent us this list of the routes and boulder problems he sent during his whirlwind five month tour of Europe's best crags and boulders. This list would make quite an impressive lifetime list, let alone five months of climbing.

Routes
Action Directe, 9a (5.14d), Frankenjura, Visit www.projectpof.com for a slideshow of Dave on the big send.
Barracuda, 8c+ (5.14c), Kietsberg, 10 moves three bolts, very Rumney-esque power crimp route.
Best Friend Lets Go Surfing, 8c+ (5.14c), a beautiful project in Switzerland at the Boki that Dave sent after 6 days of work.
Biographie, 8c+ (5.14c) version,  Ceuse. Dave didn't stop at the chains, but went to the next crux, and fell at the difficult pocket stab.
Powerplay, 8c (5.14b), Frankenjura.
Showdown, 8c (5.14b), Frankenjura.
Raubritter, 8c (5.14b), Frankenjura.
Downset, 8c (5.14b), Frankenjura. Two tries, same day as Action Directe.
Sundance Kid, 8c (5.14b), Frankenjura.
Elfe, 8c (5.14b), Grimsel Pass. Five tries.
Chronique de la haine ordianiare, 8c (5.14b), Ceuse. Three tries.
Line 1, 8b+ (5.14a), Frankenjura.
Ghettoblaster, 8b+ (5.14a), Frankenjura.
Stonelove, 8b+ (5.14a), Frankenjura. Three tries.
Bonshorno, 8b+ (5.14a), The Boki. Two tries.
Perpetually Stoked, 8b+ (5.14a) The Boki. Two tries, first ascent.
Raise the Roof, 8b+ (5.14b), Frankenjura. Four tries.
Subway, 8b (5.13d) 3 tries, Frankenjura.
L'amie de tout le monde, 8b (5.13d), Ceuse. Flash.
Deadline, 8b (5.13d), Frankenjura.
Precision Violent, 8b (5.13d) Ceuse. Two tries.
Castor, 8b (5.13d), Frankenjura. Two tries.
Bladerunner, 8b (5.13d), Frankenjura. Two tries.
Centre Court, 8a+ (5.13c) Frankenjura. Onsight.
Delicate News, 8b (5.13d) Frankenjura.
Onan der Masturbator, 8a+ (5.13c), Englberg. Flash.
Flake route? 8a+ (5.13c) ,Ceuse. Flash.
Thirteen 8a  (5.13b) onsights in Ceuse, Switzerland, and Germany
Approximately 20 onsights of 7c+ (5.13a)'s.
Approximately 20 more 8a+ (5.13c) and 8a  (5.13b) routes in a couple tries.

Boulder Problems
Sideways Daze, 8b (V13), Font. FA.
Mad Maxx, 8b (V13), Font.
Little roof, 8b (V13), Chironico.
Reve de Frere, 8b (V13), Sustenpass.
Maharadsha, 8b (V13), Frankenjura.
Zerburus, 8b (V13), Frankenjura.
Lointoine de Hueco, 8b (V13), Sustenpass.
Teen Spirit Traverse, 8a (V11), Sustenpass.
Salamandre Brione, 8a+ (V12), Sustenpass.
Pit bull, 8a+ (V12), Sustenpass.
Red snapper, 8a+ (V12), Sustenpass.
Serre moi fort, 8a+ (V12), Tessino. Two tries.
La Boule, 8a+ (V12), Cresciano. Three tries.
Frank's wild years, 8a+ (V12), Cresciano.
Freak brothers, 8a+ (V12), Chironico.
Surplomb de la Mee Bleau, 8a+ (V12), Font.
Partage, 8a+ (V12), Font.
Hybernatus S.D., 8a+ (V12), Font.
Radamahada, 8a (V11), Frankenjura.
Super platte, 8a (V11), Cresciano.
Green Thumb, 8a (V11),  Chironico. Two tries.
Le Pilier, 8a (V11),  Font. Two tries
Unknown, 8a (V11),  Chironico.
Duel , 8a (V11), Font.
Miserycorde, 8a (V11),  Font. Flash.
Neverland, 8a (V11), Font.

Disclaimer

Bouldering is dangerous. You could be seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com does not assume any liability for your safety or well being.