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Updated 7/8/01

Bouldering News

7/18/01 Ceuse, France
     Our sources report that Chris Sharma has completed the extension to Biographie and is calling the complete route 5.15a. Stay tuned for more details, which no doubt will be coming from all corners of the world wide web. Congrats to Chris!
7/14/01 Rumney, NH
     For those that have tried to catch the Barracuda, but have failed over and over again here's a small reward: after the seventh bolt head right one bolt to the chains on Maui Wowie. Catch and Release, 5.13b by Nate Kimble.

7/8/01 Yosemite, CA
     Tim Kemple is on an extended stay in the Valley and has been climbing strong. Tim and Chris Van Leuven climbed the runout testpiece Bachar Yerian route in Tuolumne, with Tim leading the first and second pitches (one of which only has three bolts in 100 feet of climbing). Tim, no slouch on runout and dangerous routes, said that he was really scared but felt in control the whole way. Tim spent five days on Golden Gate on El Cap with Chris Van Leuven and Matt Childers. They managed to free climb all but the A5 traverse (5.13b free). Tim said he climbed this pitch four times with only one hang (once breaking a bolt and going for a big ride). Tim said that even though they didn't free the whole route, "it was such an awesome experience to go ground up on such a hard route, to be doing hard scary climbing thousands of feet off the ground. Something i will never forget."

7/8/01 Farley, MA
     Ken Majka sent us this western Mass. news: July 3rd at Farley the friction was as good as it has ever been in the summer. Joel Wolpert took advantage of the non-sweltering weather and went on a bouldering marathon that consisted of over 30 problems and countless attempts. Some of the highlights include the second ascent of Dope, V8, the third ascent of Spare Change, V8, and the third ascent of the ultra-classic Low Rider, V8. He also flashed Flippin' The Bird, V6, and almost flashed Tweaky Bird, V7(falling on the last move). Also of note was how close Alyssa Bennet came to climbing Spare Change avoiding the dyno by turning all of the match stick crimps into buckets with her little hands.

7/8/01 Rumney, NH
     Nate Kimble may have started the next craze at Rumney, link ups. If you climb at an area for quite a bit of time, you may start to get bored with the routes. They start to fall into two categories, those you have done and those you can't do. By linking the start of one route and finishing on another (or further over), you can open up a whole new menu of routes without drilling a single new bolt hole. Here is Nate's suggestion: Chum - a classic 12(?) awaits you. Chum cheats its way through the more prestigious routes on Waimea (Urban Surfer, Concrete Jungle, Barracuda, and finish on Maui Wowie). Not as contrived as it sounds. Simple paddle out Urban Surfer to the 5th bolt then drop chum and troll across right for two bolt to chains. Good warm up-and you might even catch a little barracuda on the way.

7/8/01 Great Barrington, MA
     Heat and baking rock have made hard projects unlikely at GB, lately. Thus, the creation of the Red Circuit, fashioned after the Circuits at Fontainebleau. While GB cannot be compared to Font, it does have great problems in a compact zone. The Red Circuit ranges from V1 to V4 with two bonus V5 problems to spice things up. The GB Red Circuit is 30 independent lines within 100 square yards of the starting boulder, minimizing the hike between boulders. Problems were chosen based on quality, height and grade so that a team of two could safely attempt the circuit with a single pad and reasonable spotting. The Circuit was completed this Saturday and proved to be far more demanding than expected. The problems are listed in the easiest sequence to follow, starting at the Cave Boulder, then proceeding in a clockwise manner. Future Circuits? The Black Circuit of 20 Problems V5 to V6 with 2 V7's; The White Circuit of 15 problems V7 to V9; and The Adrenaline Circuit-15 Highball problems up to V6!
Cave Boulder
1. Cave Rave V4
Squirrel Boulder
2. Flower Dance V3
Buffy Boulder
3. Buffy Traverse V4
Erkenen Boulder
4. Pokey V1
5. Gumbey V3
6. Whabap! V3
7. Burly Girly V3
8. Yahuzabuh V1
9. Crystal Method V3
10. Scary Mantelo V3
11. Jake the Snake V3
South Park Area
12. Cheesy Poofs V1
13. Ass Master V4
14. Timmy V1
15. Cartman V2
16. Chef V3
17. Scuzzlebutt V5
18. The Optimator V2
* The Mashed Potato V2
Spak Boulder
19. Spack Attack V4
20. Dark Side V2
21. Power Stretch Suit V4
Phen-Fen
22. Paste V2
23. Diagnonal V4
24. White Like Wonder V4
*The Mantler V4/V5
Campus Boulder
25. Campus Problem V4
Hairy White Thing
26. Guardrail V5
27. Hairy White Thing V6*
* The Monkey V4
2-Stroke
28. Sushi Virgin V2
* Wasabi V3
Virginia Dentata
29. Shootin Food V1
30. Rainbow Pancake V1
*Optional problems to replace failed attempts or "passes" on others

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