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Bouldering
News |
6/29/01 Europe
Jason Kehl recently returned from a five month
road trip to Europe. He started off staying in Italy, where he checked out
an up and coming bouldering area called Meschia. He said the rock was
of good quality and very similar to the sandstone of Font. There Jason sent
this amazing unnamed 7c+ (V10) arete, and tons of other fun stuff! Then he
was off to Fontainebleau for a week where he sent Hybernatus 8a+ (V12)
and Neverland 8a (V11). Jason said that Neverland has got to
be the craziest problem he's ever done. Just figuring out the moves was like
trying to solve an intricate puzzle. After checking out some other areas
in northern Italy including Vall de Mello, he headed to Switzerland and the
beautiful granite of Cresciano and Chironico. Jason said that this was definitely
the highlight of his trip. There he send an unnamed 7c+ arete, Freek
Brothers, 8a+, his favorite problem of the trip Serre Moi Fort,
8a/8a+ (V11/12) and flashed an unnamed 7c (V9) and 7c+. Then he headed
to Frankenjura in Germany. The only news that came from there was a 5.13c
flash called Blow Bob and a strained tendon. The injury forced him
to flee to Spain to check out some of the great bouldering there.
Jason Kehl sending Serre Moi Forte, 8a/8a+
(V11/12) at Cresciano
in Switzerland. Photograph by Kim Lommler. |
6/21/01 Pawtuckaway, NH
After the close to 3 hour drive and the off road
scramble to the Boulder Natural area, a crew from western Massachusetts
was met by about 49,000,000 bugs and roaring thunder. After a little warming
up and meditating, Ken Majka managed to onsight/flash Bloaw, V10.
Ken said, "I think I onsighted it. I hadn't seen anyone on it and when I
asked Brett for beta he said to grab the crimps and hold onto the jug." Needless
to say he was psyched. Then while Melissa was attempting Hobbit Hole
the weather turned to really bad. Thunder and lightning all around, pouring
rain, and HALE!!!!!!!! They decided it was time to run, and with crashpads
overheads as hale deflectors they retreated up the trail which had turned
into a class 4 rapid. |
6/21/01 Yosemite, CA
Many of you may have heard that Tim Clifford
of England nabbed the third or fourth ascent (depending if you allow Fred
Nicole's disputed ascent) of the amazing Dominator, V12/13. Mick Ryan
of rockfax.com provided
this picture of Mr. Clifford's ascent.
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6/20/01 Rumney, NH
Vadim Vinokur recently sent Riviera, 5.13d,
and Steady Slobbin', 5.14b, at Rumney. Here are some pictures that
Les Pawlak took of Vadim on Steady Slobbin'.
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6/20/01 Farley, MA
Jon Lavalley sent a new highball boulder problem
at Farley, recently. Thneed, V8, climbs a 22 foot high overhanging
arete above a 80 foot cliff. His spotter resorted to wearing a harness and
tying himself to a tree to prevent both from plunging over the cliff
if Jon blew it. |
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Disclaimer
Bouldering is dangerous. You could be
seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described
in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com
does not assume any liability for your safety or well
being. |
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