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Bouldering
News |
5/28/01 Frankenjura, Germany
www.8a.nu is reporting that
Dave Graham has made the fourth ascent of Wolfgang Gullich's testpiece
Action Directe, 9a (5.14d), one of the hardest routes in the world.
Dave, on an extended roadtrip across Europe, took a little over a week to
send the route. What's next, Biographie?
Dave Graham on his first 9a, The Fly
at Rumney, NH.
Photograph by Erik Mushial. |
5/21/01 Rumney, NH
At Waimea on Sunday, John Mallery redpointed
a new link-up of Restless Natives (5.12c) with the exit of Urban Surfer,
yielding "La Voie des Canadiens" (5.12d), 10 bolts. This long and overhanging
route (35') adds some 5.11 leading up to a dramatic 5.12a lunge to calibrate
your pump atop the technical stemming corner and sporty laybacking above.
Bring long quick draws for the last bolt of Restless and the first bolt on
the Urban Exit. This is one of the longest endurance routes in Rumney and
offers a good onsight opportunity for strong and technically proficient
climbers. |
5/8/01 Northampton, MA
As always Cave Rave IV was a chaotic blend of
loud techno, chalk dust, and strong bodies tearing down the walls. Thirteen-year
old Logan Olberg ruled the mens beginner and nearly the intermediate
as well. Ernie Hansche cleaned up the Masters category. The open categories
were as always a beautiful dance to watch. Lisa Pierce and Alyssa Bennett
quietly going from problem to problem flowing up things that throngs of brawny
guys couldn't touch. At the start of the comp, Tim Kemple looked wasted from
a hard night of college life and a hard day shooting Jon Lavalley on Bulletproof.
But by the end he pulled out enough energy to squeak past the always charged
Josh Spear for the win in an exciting finals round. But perhaps most impressive
was sixteen-year old Tyson Holub who had climbed four of the previous five
days, and for two hours already that day helping me set routes. He climbed
every hard problem that all the other competitors climbed, combined. Not
enough? He climbed them all twice.
Women's Beginner:
1. Amanda Beebe |
Men's Beginner:
1. Logan Olberg |
Women's Intermediate:
1. Zoe Folchman-Wagner |
Men's Intermediate:
1. Steve Allen |
Women's Open:
1. Alyssa Bennett
2. Lisa Pierce
3. Tory Michak |
Men's Open:
1. Tim Kemple
2. Josh Spear
3. Colin Hoyt |
A huge thank you to everyone who came to Cave
Rave IV, and to our over-generous sponsors and volunteers:
Newenglandbouldering.com, Boulderinggear.com, Misty Mountain Threadworks,
Tim Kemple, Chris Fowler, Jon LaValley, Killa, Rick Howes, Josh Spear. CRV
coming this winter...... |
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Disclaimer
Bouldering is dangerous. You could be
seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described
in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com
does not assume any liability for your safety or well
being. |
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