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Bouldering
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If you have some news or some other
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wantstrength@newenglandbouldering.com. |
12/30/02 Central, CT
On December 24th, Joe Kinder sent the sit-start to Dave Theriault's
testpiece Busted Shadow in central Connecticut. It took Joe 3 days of effort
to complete this stunning line of long powerful moves between small holds,
with a gut-wrenching swing coming near its end. Here is Joe's commentary
on the problem: "Last year I visited CT for some bouldering. I was totally
overtaken on the rad powerful style that it posed. The steep wall really
lends itself to powerful climbing that you really cannot get too techy on.
I thought of the low start to Dave T's Busted Shadow as being really dope.
It was totally one problem I had to climb! This year I made 3 trips down
to do it and finally sent it Christmas Eve. I really had to dig deep inside
of myself to send it. I was getting very tired from all the attempts and
got closer with each try. I kept telling myself, "I must send today, its
going to snow and either send today or wait a long-ass time for it to dry.
Waiting sucks so DO IT!" When I really want to send something, there's that
battle mode tactic that comes out. There is pure focus and pure desire that
gets me up something when I'm in battle mode. My last good try worked. I
didn't fall and held the swing at the end. Man, when that swing comes to
get you, you really gotta try HARD not to let it overtake you! It was very
pleasing to send that problem. It has got to be the hardest thing I have
climbed. FOR ME it is around V13(8b), a hard 8b. That is...FOR ME. Someone
else might piss on it. My friend Dave will do it next and he will suggest
a difficulty as well." |
10/11/02 Rumney, NH
Recently, Vadim Vinokur flashed Justin Haye's new route
at the New Wave crag, Strict Scrutiny, 14a. Additionally, Vadim sent
Livin Astro, 5.14c, the routes third ascent. He fell at the top two
times before he sent (he also fell at the last move the week prior). Tim
Kemple reported, "He has to do the last move as an all out jump to the arete.
He crunches up and lets loose, his feet swing all around all crazy when he
sticks. But he stuck this move and then as he bumped to the summit jug. his
left hand popped just as he grabbed it. He was swinging by one hand and basically
had to do a one arm pull up to clip the anchors." |
9/22/02 The Gunks, NY
Matt Bosley recently added a sit start to Dragon
Turns, a V10 at the Upper Roof above the Andrew boulder in the Trapps
area at the Gunks. Matt dubbed the new start, Crouching Dragon and
thought it was about V11/12.
Matt Bosley on Crouching Dragon,
V11/12 at the Trapps in the Gunks, NY.
Photograph by Matt Stark. |
9/22/02 Rumney, NH
Unreported from October 2001, Justin Hayes did the first
ascent of Dark Star, which climbs the prominent black streak on the
right side of the New Wave wall at Rumney. Dark Star, originally bolted
by Ward Smith, is listed as a "Project" in the new Rumney guidebook. Unrated
and unrepeated the consensus seems to be in the 5.13+ range. Last week, Justin
sent Strict Scrutiny, which climbs Dark Star to its 8th bolt
and an OK shake and then makes a hard, two move traverse right and climbs
pretty much all of the business on Paradox, 12d. Strict Scrutiny
has over 50 hand moves, on very small holds with one shake. Hesitant to rate
the climb, he said that it is much harder than Urban Surfer which
he did this spring. Still adrenalized, Justin did Predator, 13b, the
next day in two tries (4 tries total including two from October '01) and
Fish Hooks, 12d/13a, in two tries. |
9/5/02 Rumney, NH
Joe Kinder returned the other day from a summer of travelling
in Europe and Colorado with some unfinished business to take care before
being able to focus on his last year of college. He spent three consecutive
days working on Livin' Astro, the amazing arete to the right of China
Beach on Rumney's Waimea cliff, before claiming it's second ascent. Joe
fell on the last move on day two, and sent it first go on day three. Joe
clipped the anchor and then decided to go for the topout, which proved
to be quite a battle. Joe said, "I have said it before and I will say it
again....When you come home from a long road trip, you send your projects."
As for the grade, Joe felt Livin' Astro was surely harder than any
of the 5.14c's he worked on in Europe. |
8/26/02 Acadia, ME
Tim Kemple sent a new, hard trad line at Great Head in
Acadia, Maine this past weekend. The route, Thicker Than Water, 5.13b
R, starts about 20 ft to the right of Sedated in the main cave. Tim
said "It's a really beautiful line and climbs better than any other I have
done there." The route starts out with some layback moves up to a lip traverse,
where you traverse the lip of a roof for about ten feet on upside down pinches.
Then comes the upper, slightly overhanging headwall that has the crux move
- a dyno from a stem to a jug. The gear is marginal with potential groundfall
in several spots. Tim took a total of five tries to lead it while placing
all of the gear on lead. |
7/21/02 Farley, MA
This is an update of the progress in the efforts to
permanently protect Farley Ledge and resolve ongoing access concerns.
Everything is still moving forward as planned. A draft Climbing
Management Plan was released for review and comment in May of 2002. This
comprehensive document addressed the major concerns raised by landowners,
town officials, MA DEM, MA Fisheries and Wildlife, Northfield Mountain Recreation
and Environmental Center, the local climbing community and others. The plan
has been received with great enthusiasm thus far. Comments have been received
by most of the recipients of the draft Climbing Management Plan. Trying to
get everyone on the same page and to work together is a difficult and lengthy
process however. An informative kiosk and trail signs are ready to be installed
at the current parking area. I am hoping to get Farley on the list for
Adopt-A-Crag sponsored by the Access Fund in September but it may depend
on Northfield Mountain's willingness to participate. A meeting with Erving
Selectmen has also been held to rally for their support. They are supportive
but small town politics get in the way of immediate actions.
The one major holdup at this point is with Northfield Mountain.
The major property owner, Northeast Utilities Co. who oversees the Northfield
Mountain project, has yet to comment on the plan. Until their voice is heard,
little can be done to pursue permanent protection and access to the main
climbing area. The land manager who has been involved with this project at
Northfield Mountain claims to be too busy to comment on the Management Plan
until late September. Since they have been given adequate time to review
and comment on the Plan, efforts are now being made to contact the parent
company, Northeast Utilities, directly.
Adjacent landowners including the Black's, Bucci's, and
Stewart/Schermesser have expressed their concerns and support for this project.
The Access Fund, along with the Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition
and other organizations, are helping to develop a more permanent solution,
including land acquisition. This process may be lengthy due to the complexity
of land ownerships.
On a more positive note, the MA Department of Fisheries and
Wildlife have taken a strong interest in the project due in large part to
the peregrine falcons that have recently nested on a portion of the cliffs.
A member of their land acquisition committee has expressed the potential
of a possible purchase if Northeast Utilities agrees to it.
Continued support and compliance by the local climbing community
and others visiting the area is vital to this projects success. Letters of
support to anyone involved will greatly help this project. Contact Jeff Squire
at jtsquire@msn.com for more information
on writing letters. Joining the
WMCC (click
here to do so) will also help to raise a stronger voice during these
negotiations. |
7/21/02 Telluride, CO
We inadvertently forgot to mention the 8th place finish
of Connecticut local Nate "Biggie Smooth" Gold at last week's PCA comp. |
7/1702 Europe, reported by Tom
Adams
Rob Frost has been traveling and climbing all over Europe
since June 2 with Tim Kemple, Dave Graham, Luke Parady, and Joe Kinder. The
New England posse has been sending all kinds of hard routes and open projects.
Rob is filming much of the action in preparation for his next film project.
So far they’ve been to Switzerland and France, and are currently headed
to Austria to hook up with Alex Huber. In Switzerland, Luke Parady made the
second ascent of Voigas, Fb8B (V13), at Magic Wood in two days. Also,
he did the third ascent of Perpetually Stoked, 8b (5.13d), at the
Bocki. At Ceuse, he did two 8bs called Viollente Illusion and L'Ami
de Tout le Monde. In Switzerland, Joe Kinder sent Best Friend Let's
Go Surfing, 8c (5.14b) at the Bocki, and an 8b+ (5.14a) in Basel in two
days. In France, Joe also did Viollente Illusion in one day. Dave
Graham did an FA in Sustenpass (bouldering area in Switzerland) called
Lonely Low Lifestyles Fb8B+ (V14), as well as an FA at the Bocki called
The Foun, 8c+ (5.14c). Graham has onsighted three routes rated 8a+
(5.13c), one at Switzerland's Yellow Wall, and two in Ceuse. Graham also
did an 8c called La Padra on his second try, and sent an open project
to the right of Realization in three days...that route is now called
Bah Bah Black Sheep and is a very technical and bouldery 8c+. Rob’s
got all of this and much more on tape, as well as several days of filming
with Francois Legrand, Lisa Rands, and Simon Wandeler. According to Rob,
“Europe rules.” |
7/17/02 Telluride, CO
New Englanders Pete Ward, Tyson Holub, and Lu Yan all
climbed strong at the PCA competition in Telluride, Colorado this past weekend.
All three advanced from the pre-qualifying round (for unranked competitors)
into the qualifying round. Tyson finished 52nd overall (though he may have
finished high if not for a possible scoring error), Pete finished 50th,
and Lu finished 25th. The women faired even better, with Alyssa Bennett
overcoming illness to finish 16th and Jolie Matkowski finished 9th. Both
Alyssa and Jolie were able to avoid the pre-qualifying round due to their
strong showing from last year's PCA comps. About the comp, Pete said, "Although
the terrain on the boulder was a bit limiting, Scott Mechler compensated
with excellent route setting and made the climbing way fun. |
6/6/02 Great
Barrington, MA
The big news at Great Barrington recently, was Matt Bosley's
impressive 2nd ascent of Joe Kinder's Speed Boulder testpiece, Something
from Nothing, V12/13. Dave Theriault added a new sit start problem on
the Optimator boulder, halfway between Urkinin and Spack. Dave said
The Optimist climbs smallest holds he has ever used on a
problem and felt about V11. Dave also added two new problems on recently
cleaned up boulders past the Speed boulder. Dave only took two tries to send
Needles and Pins, V9/10, which climbs out a beautiful bulge left of
a V3 highball put up by Jason Cross recently. The other problem,
The Binge, V7, is a tough dyno up an overhanging wall to a slopey
lip, followed by a lip traverse right to a cool mantle, a sit start is obvious
but incomplete. Dan Bates and Mike Howard repeated The Binge in short
order.
Dave Theriault on The Binge, V7.
Photograph by Dan Bates. |
Dave Theriault on The Optimist, V11.
Photograph by Dan Bates. |
|
6/6/02 Haycock Mountain,
PA
Char Fetterolf added a new V10/11, Yosemite Crack,
to the growing list of testpieces at Haycock Mountain, PA.
Char Fetterolf on the first ascent of
Yosemite Crack, V10/11. Photograph by Chris Redmond. |
6/6/02 Sourland, NJ
Chris Redmond added a new V10 at a roadside boulder at
Sourland Mountain in New Jersey. Kent Sommerville convinced Chris that the
problem, Selassie, would go and grabbed the second ascent as
well.
Chris Redmond on the first ascent of
Selassie, V10. Photograph by Kent Sommerville. |
5/29/02 Rumney, NH reported by John
Mallery
The Spring climbing season at Rumney has been in full
swing for last six weeks. The hardcore element has been climbing regularly
since mid February, and the past weekends have been packed with the largest-ever
crowds, travelling from all over the east coast. French Canadians form a
solid, regular core who give the crags a European atmosphere, which is rounded
out by the resident international set from countries including Germany, France,
and Japan.
Eneko Pou on Khundaline, 5.12d, at the
Bonsai Crag, Rumney, New Hampshire. Photograph by John
Mallery.
This year heralded the emergence of Rumney as
an international destination area for the world's top climbers. The famous
Basque climber Iker Pou and his brother Eneko spent about four weeks in Rumney
Known for his 3rd ascent of Action Direct, 5.14d, Iker is a very talented
and strong climber specializing in power routes, like the ones found at Rumney.
Iker ticked an impressive series of redpoints, including Dr No, 5.14a, (4
tries) Parallel Universe, 5.14a (almost flashed), Supernova, 5.14b, (5th
ascent), Steady slobbin, 5.14b, (5th ascent), All Day Slacker, 5.14b, (2nd
ascent). He got really close to sending China Beach, 8c, for the 3rd ascent,
but poor weather conditions stopped him. He put in a very good showing on
the Fly, 9a, but needed more time. He did all the moves on Livin Astro, 5.14c,
but decided that the top crux required a span greater than his. Iker thought
that the ratings (and he got on many routes 5.13a to 5.14d) were not just
solid but harder than the international norms.
Iker Pou latching the crescent on The Fly,
5.14d, Waimea Crag, Rumney, New Hampshire. Iker has completed the approach
boulder problem here; now he needs to match his foot with the right hand
(crux) and tough it out the V9 to the summit. Photograph by John
Mallery.
With the publication of articles on Rumney in
Grimper and Desnivel later this year, one can expect increasing visitation
by international climbers. But, they will find that Rumney really only appeals
to a select breed of climber who can appreciate highly-technical, bouldery,
power-endurance climbing at solid grades. This is not a place for endurance
limestone climbers, or magazine climbers looking to pad their resumes; these
routes are HAARD and you have to be STRONG.
Local hardman, Joe Kinder snaked the first ascent
of All Day Slacker, 5.14b, from an unsuspecting but unperturbed Eric Mushial,
demonstrating just how much he has learned from Dave Graham. Joe is again
very close on Livin Astro, 5.14c, but had to depart on his two-month trip
to Europe for a three-musketeers video extravaganza accompanied by a team
of dancing girls. Joe and Tim Kemple also made the second and third ascents
of the Cyberbloc, 5.13d, which was upgraded after a hold broke.
Extensive preparations last fall and winter
enabled the Sherbrooke PQ powerhouse, Mathieu Fontaine, to link Parallel
Universe, 5.14a, and followed it up with the 3rd ascent of All Day Slacker,
5.14b. Mat's training regimen involved extensive burns on Parallel, and warm-down
sessions on Riviera and t he Fly -- where he has reached the crescent hold.
After a single-minded winter and spring effort,
Ben Hebb succeeded on Venus-on-a--Half-Shell, V10, Powermonger, Justin `Bustin'
Hayes, made the 6th ascent of Urban Surfer, 5.13d, after a month of work
using specialized feel-good approach and training methods to supplement his
strong bouldering base.
Dave Sharrat sent Flying Fish, 5.13c, and Concrete
Jungle, 5.13c, as side projects after full sessions on Supernova, 5.14b,
which indicates a certain training level. John Mallery pulled off the masterpoint
(three consecutive redpoints) of his new link-up Overseas Tides (5.13b/c)
(Coral Seas, 5.13b, to Man Overboard, 5.12d) as a side project after full
sessions Cold War, 5.14a/b.
Taki Miyamoto bagged an early ascent of Coral
Seas, 5.13b, demonstrating that, contrary to popular opinion, this route
is not size limited. Eric Mushial, on a vacation from Monsters, cranked off
Tabditto, 5.13b/c, which also saw an ascent by Jean-Dominique Sauden. At
the New Wave Crag, a new entry-level 5.13a/b named Roaring Silence was sent
by Nate Kimble, Steve Burgerella, and Dan Nguyen. Mark Sprague sent Thin
Man, 5.13a, in early season and the ever-popular Bottom Feeder, 5.13a, was
redpointed by Jean-Dominique Sauden and Sam Lavoie. Visiting German climber,
Bjorn Andreas, sent Sub-Urban, 5.13a, as well as the 5.12ds Kundalini and
Tinman.
Eliza Sprecher, preparing for her international
debut, logged some flight time while redpointing Whip Tide, 5.12c, and
Man-Over-Board, 5.12d, but dispatched Restless Natives, 5.12c, second try.
Restless Natives, 5.12c, was the scene of major
bolt replacement and now sports 5 beefy ring bolts (3 on top and 2 on the
bottom); No more excuses about sketchy looking bolts.
Speed warm-up runs on Technosurfing, 5.12b,
now have the following times: 2:53 toprope unclipping all draws (Bjorn Andreas),
3:41 pinkpoint (Bjorn Andreas), and 4:07 redpoint placing and clipping all
draws (John Mallery). Mallery led the route as a warm-up 35 times this season
without incident. As some Vermont trad climbers have found, projecting Techo
for weeks on end can be frustrating when four guys in a row float the route
as a warm-up. At least, you can get the draws on it easily.
Vadim Vinokur and the New York crew have been
making it up to Rumney After fracturing both heals in gym drop last summer,
Vadim has made a great recovery and is looking strong working out some of
the 5.14s like Supernnova and Livin Astro.
With the increasing traffic at the cliffs has
come the scourge of crime. So far this season, a pair of shoes, a crash pad,
some fixed draws and anchor biners have disappeared. Fixed draws are in place
as a public service; don't be a loser and take them. Watch out for your gear
and confront any thieves you detect. Backwoods New Hampshire has some special
justice for these miscreants.
Oh yea, the black flies are buzzing so the Spring
season is over....and everyone is heading out on summer climbing trips. |
5/24/02 Rhode Island
On the heels of sending southern Rhode Island's first
double digit boulder problem, Mike Galoob did the first (re)ascent of Shoot
to Kill at Lincoln Woods yesterday. Dave Graham had sent Shoot to
Kill, a left to right traverse of the Cave Boulder (essentially
an extension of Gassed Off with a hard finish), a few years ago and
had rated it V10. The problem went unrepeated until a key hold broke off
this past winter. Many strong climbers had worked the problem, before and
after the broken hold, to no avail. Mike thought the problem should
keep the original name and suggested a rating of V11. Also, a few weeks ago,
Mike did the first ascent of Ground Zero, V10, at the Lost Boulder
in Arcadia State Park.
Mike in the middle of the crux of Shoot to
Kill. |
Mike on the starting holds of Ground Zero. |
|
5/18/02 Western
Massachusetts
Add Alan Bishop to the list of strong boulderer you've
never heard of. The day after finishing 2nd at the Prime Climb bouldering
comp (see below), Alan send Y2K9, at the Happy Valley
bouldering area in Western Massachusetts. Brett Myers, Kozo Nozawa,
and Justin Hayes also recently sent this problem. Brett commented that he
thought it was harder than several other V10s in the area. |
5/5/02 Milford, MA
After over a year of relentless effort, Lee Soares finally
sent his amazing project in Milford, Massachusetts. Bloodsport, V10,
climbs consistently harder moves on a slightly overhanging face to an even
harder topout. Lee took unspotted falls from the top before being able to
press out the committing mantle. |
5/4/02 Prime Climb, CT
For such short notice, the recent bouldering competition
at Prime Climb had a decent turnout with over 50 competitors. Due to the
decent turnout, they were able to give out some nice cash prizes, 1st
place in the men's and women's open each took home 300 bucks. Here are the
top finishers:
Mens advanced
1.Justin Savarese
2.Brian Kim
3.Anthony Courtey |
Mens Beginner
1.Kurt Peterson
2.Greg Lowden
3 Jonathan Vramer |
Mens Open
1. Nate "Biggie" Gold
2.Alan Bishop
3.Brett Lowell
4.Ben Fuller
5.Dan Bates |
Womens Open
1. KK Gregory
2.Whitney Hoose |
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