Updated 8/4/02

Bouldering in Massachusetts

     Massachusetts has some high quality bouldering. Presented here is a sampling of some of the bouldering in the state. We will be adding to this page in the coming months. If you have any information on bouldering in Massachusetts, please e-mail us.

Nahant

There is some excellent climbing along the shores of Nahant (as there is good  climbing around most shores). The rocks here aren't your typical boulders however. I wouldn't recommend Nahant for first time climbers. It is very dangerous at many points and quite a tough climb. The rocks are very jagged and steep.

Directions:
If you follow Lynn beach, or the Lynnway to the circle where you can head toward Nahant…yeah, you know what to do there (it's right off of rte. 1A). Just stick to this road until you see the ocean. You'll pass the police station on your right, then a convenience store. When you see the ocean, the road will curve a bit, just follow along the ocean road. Northeastern University's marine lab is located on the left. You'll see a small parking lot just outside Northeastern's parking lot. There is a sign saying that it's resident parking only and towing is enforced, but every time I've been there, I've never seen a car with a resident sticker or a tow truck (but do be careful). You can walk into Northeastern's "area," but it tells you to stay inside the yellow lines. Once you get to the top of the park, you can wander as you wish. There are caution signs warning you of the dangerous rocks, but that's the whole point right? Alright you're here, have fun, respect the earth, enjoy the climb and the sights, and by all means, be careful!

Rockport

This particular spot has some of the most incredible scenery in this area. The rock climbing is intermediate and it's lots of fun. It's formed of small boulders that have fallen so perfectly into place due to blasting (which is actually to your benefit because the drill holes help for grips).

Directions:
Take 128 North through Gloucester (through both rotaries - second exit on each one), and you'll come to a set of lights intersecting 127. Take a left at this intersection. Follow this road until you come to a big, very odd shaped intersection (you'll know when you hit it). If you go right, that will take you to Rockport Center. Instead, go left and follow that road for about 10 minutes (if that) and you'll see a small brown sign on the side of the road saying Hallibut Point State Forest. It's kind of easy to miss so I usually look for a big (I think it's brown) house that looks like a farm house (actually it is a farm house). It will be on your right and there's a parking lot right there. The entrance is across the street from the parking lot. The path leads to a huge quarry, the ocean being right behind it. Walk half way around the quarry and you'll see the promise land of bouldering.

More North Shore Bouldering

     For quite some time now, we have been hearing about some excellent bouldering along the North Shore area of Massachusetts, north of Boston. Paul Lembeck, a former North Shore boulderer now living in Colorado, sent us a ton of information on the bouldering in this area. Click here for the beta and e-mail us if you have anything to add. 

Den Rock, Lawrence

     Denrock Park, a fairly well known climbing area in northern Massachusetts, is located on Rt. 114 across from the North Andover Shopping Mall.

Wendell Road, Montague

     This is an interesting little bouldering area, and is a bit unique for western Mass. in that the access is good. The bouldering here consists of steep climbing on generally positive holds. There do not seem to be many distinct problems, but the possibilities for link-ups and variations are endless. This area, which is fairly close to Farley Ledge, is located in Montague near the intersection of Wendell Road and Mormon Hollow Road, not far from Route 91 or Route 2. The bouldering is clearly visible from the road, and parking exists just off the road. The following three photos depict the nature of the bouldering here.

Borderland State Park, Easton

     Borderland State Park in Easton appears to have the potential to be a pretty good bouldering area. The big attraction is the Ames Boulder, a massive glacial erratic situated on the aptly named Boulder Trail. Another area with great potential is the Trailside Boulders, a series of at least eight good-sized boulders along the trail that loops around the lake. These are all plainly visible from the trail. If you have bouldered here, or know anyone who has, please e-mail me. Stay tuned for a map and problem descriptions.
     I took these photos with a self-timer. The first two are on the Ames Boulder, and the third is on one of the Trailside Boulders.

Rocky Woods Road, Taunton

     Chris Trautz, co-owner of the under-construction Carabiner's climbing gym, has begun developing a cool puddingstone bouldering area in the Rocky Woods of Taunton. The crown jewel of this area, The Wall, may be better than the Alcove and Pusherman walls at Hammond Pond. Click here for a topo Chris prepared for the area.

Joe McLoughlin sending The Crack, V3, on The Wall. Photograph (and names) by Chris Trautz.

Mohawk Rock, Savoy

     Ralph Munn has developed some decent bouldering on Mohawk Rock, a roadside schist boulder about 22 miles west of Greenfield on Route 2, just over the line into the town of Savoy. Development is still under way, and the current tally of about a dozen routes has the potential to rise to about 20 or so, with the additions being pretty hard. The grading is open for debate. Folks wanting a tour of Mohawk Rock or any of the other areas around there (all under development at the present time) can contact Ralph Munn at rmunnastp@aol.com. Click here for a topo Ralph graciously provided.

Vietnam, Milford

     This area is a very popular mountain biking and dirt biking area. Although the boulders likely lie on private land, climbing appears to be a minimally intrusive use compared to the mountain bikes and motorcycles. We do not condone trespassing on private land, and only provide this information for those who know the area and are willing to accept the consequences of their actions. However, based on the high number of bikers, access does not appear to be an issue.

     The bouldering here can best be described as adventure bouldering. There are many boulders and short cliffs scattered throughout the woods, many of which appear to have been quarried. One of the most interesting boulders is a wall of monos created by the quarryman's drill. Click here for several maps where we have identified several boulders and problems, however, many more can be found around the forest. Bring your mountain bike and a sense of adventure.

College Rock, Milford

     College Rock is located in Hopkinton off of Route 85. You can reach Route 85 from Interstate 495. The parking area for the cliff is located about 1 mile on the right off of College Street. The cliff is about 200 yards down an obvious trail. Again, consult the Boston Rocks guide for specifics. There are some decent, not-too-high problems on the right side of the cliff that range from VB to V0- (listed as routes in the guide). The real gem is the left to right 200 foot traverse that checks in around V3. Fun, with several good rests. The boulder down the trail on the right supposedly has some decent problems.

Hammond Pond, Boston

     Hammond Pond is located off of Route 9 in the Chestnut Hill section of Boston. The main parking area is located in the Chestnut Hill Shopping Center which is next to the Bloomingdale's Mall. Ahh, urban climbing. You can do a little shopping between boulder problems. The Boston Rocks guidebook gives some beta for bouldering but does not use the V rating system. The Alcove and Pusherman's wall provide most of the quality bouldering.

Bates Boulder, Wellesley

     This boulder warrants one visit, if you are in the area. The problems are okay, nothing special. There is a dirt parking area with a sign that reads: "Kelley Memorial Park" off of Elmwood Avenue in Wellesley. Get a map and look for "Bates Elementary School" the parking area is just down the street from the school. On the back left side of the parking area, follow an obvious trail into the woods. The boulder is about three minutes on the left. Does not look like much from the trail. Click here for a topo of this boulder.

Disclaimer

Bouldering is dangerous. You could be seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com does not assume any liability for your safety or well being.