Bouldering in Connecticut

Well, it turns out that there is good bouldering in Connecticut, and lots of it if you believe the rumors. The problem is, try and get the locals to tell you where it is. Amid access concerns, project phobia, and fear of Ken Nichol's cromoly chisel, I have heard rumors of house-size boulders with all four sides overhanging at least 30 degrees. Although I still don't know where those boulders are, we do have info on some good areas. If you know of any others, please e-mail me so that I can include them.

Dave Theriault on the sit start to Split Rock, V10, at an area in Connecticut we can't give you beta for.
Photograph by John Lavin.

Cathole Pass

    Pete Tanski has prepared a rough bouldering guide to the bouldering at this area in Meriden, Connecticut. Click here to check out the guide. 

Ragged Mountain

    There is some bouldering at this well-known crage. From "Unconquerable Crack," walk down the scree field and go left at the bottom. There are two huge boulders that form a V. High Head Blues is on the right boulder, just left from the right arete. The face is around 25 feet high. There is a nice pine tree on your right. Start on the crimp about 5 feet off of the ground. Move up through the next few holds to a small crimp about 12 feet up - then to the obvious undercling, and up to the next two slopers that are 18-22 feet up, respectfully. Finally, top out at the bucket. Right arete is off.

     At this point, the only area open to climbing at Ragged is the Main Cliff. For more info on access here, go to www.raggedmtn.org. Stay tuned for more info on bouldering at Ragged.

John Lavin on Head High Blues, V5/6 at Ragged Mountain. Photograph by Mike Geanacopoulos.

Ridgefield

     Two motivated locals, Victor Guzik and Tully Roher have been developing several areas in Ridgefield, off of Exit 3 on Interstate 84. According to Tully, "There are basically three areas: Stonehill Commons Area, Martin Park Area, and Aldrich State Park Area. Stonehill Commons is on the right side of Route 7 three miles South of the Exit ramp from I84. Park in the parking lot of the Condo complex, not in the garages, and hike up into the woods. There are big boulders right in the parking lot, but for access reasons, should be tread upon lightly. Martin Park is another 2-3 miles past Stonehill. You will come upon a Driving Range (golf) on your left. Turn on to the road and drive past the golf range entrance, and take the next left into a huge parking lot. Walk up the asphalt to the beach, and along the water's edge until you come to a 25 foot cliff over the water. Up into the woods from here is a big boulder with an imposing route, with graffiti (not me) that says Sex-Rock-Drugs. This and a green boulder a little further in the woods are the only one's with problems on them. Farther along the water are more boulders with untapped potential. Access to Aldrich State Park is a bit sketchy, so e-mail Tully for more info.

Seven Falls, Middletown

Austin Zinsser and friends have  begun developing a cool looking bouldering area in Middletown called Seven Falls. There appears to be the potential for lots of hard, overhanging boulder problems. Check  out Austin's website, which has a map and lots of photos of the boulders.

Rattlesnake Mountain

David Theriault provided the following information on some of the bouldering  at Rattlesnake Mountain in Farmington, Connecticut. "Alright, the rumours are true, Connecticut actually has the best bouldering in the Northeast, although it is limited, spread out ,and illegal. Woe is us. So, I can't give you the goods on the best stuff, but I can let you in on one spot I have developed at Rattlesnake Mountain in Farmington. Heading east on Route 6 you will see two TV towers. Past an evil quarry ,you will come to an access road for the towers with a gate. You can park on the side of Route 6, next to this road, where the blue blazed Metacomet trail heads up the hill (to the right side of the access road). Follow this trail till you reach a jumble of huge blocks with a cave marked with a plaque. This is Will Warrens den. Around the right side is a corridor with a few classics, especially Sheffield Wednesday, the bulge just right of the descent chimney-thing on the right wall which goes at V5 or V6. As with almost all of the problems here, start with your rear on the earth. There are quite a few more problems in this general area and some truly hideous projects, some with handicapper potential, but the real plums are at the Kung Fu Cave, which is at the opposite end of all the boulders, before you reach the top of Rattlesnake Rock proper, the largish cliff the blue trail skirts at the right side. You will know Kung Fu Cave by the low rock wall at its base, and the impressively bulging left side. The right wall has many classics and variations that are technical and powerful and for the most part unrepeated, because no one has been here."

"Kung Fu Cave right side:
1. Shaolin Buddha Finger, V5: start standing up, left arete stay on left side
2. Kung Fu, V6: sitdown start, climb arete starting as low as possible topping out via jug
3. Fists of Fury, V2: start sitting at low big square edge head up and right to bucket reach out left to pinch and top out
4 .var Half a Loaf of Kung Fu , V6: start as for 3 but shoot out left to slanting crimper next to seam and then use only holds on or directly next to seam
5. Enter the Dragon, V3: start very, very low clutching sloping edge for left and right under bulge, head up and right to jugs very short
6. var Black Belt Theater, V3: same as 5 but stay between arete with jugs to right and shallow inside corner to left"

"Link Ups
Kung Fu Meets the Dragon, V6/7: start as for 2 but instead of hitting arete traverse right on crimps till you can hit finishing jugs on 5 stay low
The Real Jackie Chan, V6: start as for 3 but traverse immediately left till you can shoot for bucket on 2, left arete is off"

"The awesome left wall is home to Drunken Master AN ALL TIME CLASSIC. Start all the way in the back of the cave stemming between both walls with your hands on the end of left flake. Traverse left under the bulging wall till you reach the arete, then climb the arete. Long sustained technical funky brilliant. Unfortunately an annual nesting spot for birds, so leave this one till fall (the humidity will probably keep you from linking anyway)."

The Process Boulder

The now defunct (very unfortunately) Crux Northeast contained an article in Issue 4 February/March 1994 on this boulder located off Route 2 in Marlborough, CT. To quote the article: "To find the Process, head west on Route 2 from Route 66 in Marlborough. Pass a road cut and two guard rails. Just past the second guard rail, you will be able to see a short, overhanging face through the trees. Park off the pavement and hop over a fence to reach the boulder." The article mentions several traverses in the V0+ to V1 range. Joe Vitti put up the problems on this boulder.  A former local e-mailed us and said that he recalls doing about 10 lines and variations on this boulder that range from a 5.6 crack to 5.10 face. Next time you are in this area, give it a try. A local recently wrote us that police have been ticketing cars parked on Route 2 and even kicked some climbers out of this area. The locals spoke with the police and worked it out that climbing is allowed, but parking on Route 2 is not. A new way to access this area is being developed.

East Peak

Find Hubbard Park in Meriden and drive to the very back of the park. You need to be in the parking lot that is just below the I-691 bridge. Once you're there, the walking path leads from under the bridge up towards Castle Craig. Go up the trail about 300-450 yards till you see a retention pond/reservoir on your left. Duck around the back of this water body and head out into the woods about 400 yards until you come to the boulder field. The boulder field, for those of you who have a guide book, lies just below the Ampitheater climbing area.

Disclaimer

Bouldering is dangerous. You could be seriously injured or killed. Do not attempt any of the problems described in this web page unless you have the expertise to do so. NewEnglandBouldering.com does not assume any liability for your safety or well being.