One of the (many?) great things about YouTube and Vimeo is the abundance of bouldering videos. Though most are posted by aspiring hardmen and women seeking fame and glory, their actual value is in the amount of beta now available for viewing and reviewing. Keep in mind though, that not all beta videos are created equal. Some give bad beta, info, or depict invalid sends. As our first example, below are several videos of Barbed Wire, a three-star classic V9 at Lincoln Woods. The first video gives good beta for the most part though it does call it a V10. Interestingly, in Tim Kemple's guidebook the beta states that when you get the match you reach out left to the crimps of Due Diligence and right hand on the sloper. This may explain why he had it as V10, because the beta now is to not move your left out on to the crimps but to have left on the sloper and right on the slug which was not part of Kemple's beta. The second two videos show invalid sends due to not starting the probelm properly.
This one shows an invalid tripod/squat start:
This one shows an invalid start by starting on the 2nd move:
Some may argue that these two invalid sends don't matter because that first move isn't hard, but if you are gonna claim an ascent of a boulder problem, start at the start not wherever you feel like starting...
Yeah man, you got to start these problems at the F'ing start. I know a ton of people that skip the first move on all the "left sit" problems at Try Again. Drives me crazy...
The Wall