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So I know there are some strong boulderers out there that need a kind of dating service to meet up with some hard open projects in New England.  I'm going to attempt to get some info out on some hard project that need some loving.  Below, is a stunning beauty of a roof project.  Easy sit start to a good hold leads to a long move (pictured below) out of the roof to a pinch with a small seam.  From here, it's anyone's guess as to how this one will go.  Location: Gilbert Hills State Forest in Foxboro, Massachusetts.  Comment if interested and I can get you directions (it isn't that easy to find).  Also, comment if you know of any lonely open projects in the New England area.

JoeM · Dec 23 '11 · Comments: 19 · Tags: new england, projects
Gonna be a awesome day at the woo ! Who is working what??? Hueco Dreams, Barbed Wire, Chemical, Conquest of the Irrational ... Lets hear it!?
jamier · Jan 6 · Comments: 7 · Tags: lincoln woods, lw, woo

So, Mountain Project has a huge section on Lynn Woods:  http://mountainproject.com/v/lynn-woods/105908096  Looks like there are tons of problems of all grades there.  I have heard mixed reviews of the place, some say it is great and some say not so much.  Have people been here and is it worth checking out???

JoeM · Jan 11 · Comments: 5 · Tags: lynn woods bouldering
One of the (many?) great things about YouTube and Vimeo is the abundance of bouldering videos.  Though most are posted by aspiring hardmen and women seeking fame and glory, their actual value is in the amount of beta now available for viewing and reviewing.  Keep in mind though, that not all beta videos are created equal.  Some give bad beta, info, or depict invalid sends.  As our first example, below are several videos of Barbed Wire, a three-star classic V9 at Lincoln Woods.  The first video gives good beta for the most part though it does call it a V10.  Interestingly, in Tim Kemple's guidebook the beta states that when you get the match you reach out left to the crimps of Due Diligence and right hand on the sloper.  This may explain why he had it as V10, because the beta now is to not move your left out on to the crimps but to have left on the sloper and right on the slug which was not part of Kemple's beta.  The second two videos show invalid sends due to not starting the probelm properly.



This one shows an invalid tripod/squat start:


This one shows an invalid start by starting on the 2nd move:


Some may argue that these two invalid sends don't matter because that first move isn't hard, but if you are gonna claim an ascent of a boulder problem, start at the start not wherever you feel like starting...


JoeM · Jan 13 · Comments: 2