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Here is another open project at Gilbert Hills. This one is located on the Arrowhead boulder (http://mountainproject.com/v/arrowhead-boulder/106531920) which is not far behind the Grafitti boulder near the intersection of High Rock Road and the Megley Trail.  Very easy to find, but not very easy to send.  Start with an ass on the ground sit start using an obvious right facing jug hold (Jamie Emerson would highly approve of this starting hold) and then climb the right arete to the peak of the boulder using sloping pinches on the arete and some crimps on the face.  Probably requires some serious heel hooking skills too.  The stand has reportedly been done at about V8.  This problem is well into double digits and has to be four or five stars.  This picture doesn't do it justice but it is the right arete in the foreground.

 

 

 

JoeM · Feb 10
One of the (many?) great things about YouTube and Vimeo is the abundance of bouldering videos.  Though most are posted by aspiring hardmen and women seeking fame and glory, their actual value is in the amount of beta now available for viewing and reviewing.  Keep in mind though, that not all beta videos are created equal.  Some give bad beta, info, or depict invalid sends.  As our first example, below are several videos of Barbed Wire, a three-star classic V9 at Lincoln Woods.  The first video gives good beta for the most part though it does call it a V10.  Interestingly, in Tim Kemple's guidebook the beta states that when you get the match you reach out left to the crimps of Due Diligence and right hand on the sloper.  This may explain why he had it as V10, because the beta now is to not move your left out on to the crimps but to have left on the sloper and right on the slug which was not part of Kemple's beta.  The second two videos show invalid sends due to not starting the probelm properly.



This one shows an invalid tripod/squat start:


This one shows an invalid start by starting on the 2nd move:


Some may argue that these two invalid sends don't matter because that first move isn't hard, but if you are gonna claim an ascent of a boulder problem, start at the start not wherever you feel like starting...


JoeM · Jan 13 · Comments: 2

So, Mountain Project has a huge section on Lynn Woods:  http://mountainproject.com/v/lynn-woods/105908096  Looks like there are tons of problems of all grades there.  I have heard mixed reviews of the place, some say it is great and some say not so much.  Have people been here and is it worth checking out???

JoeM · Jan 11 · Comments: 5 · Tags: lynn woods bouldering
Gonna be a awesome day at the woo ! Who is working what??? Hueco Dreams, Barbed Wire, Chemical, Conquest of the Irrational ... Lets hear it!?
jamier · Jan 6 · Comments: 7 · Tags: lincoln woods, lw, woo
This is full snapshot of the Classic New England Bouldering website from 2009!  Everything in there works except the store and the old forum.  This includes all of the state climbing beta, videos, stories, articles, slideshows, and all the great stuff that made NEB what it is.  Over time, some of this content will migrate over to the new site but I thought it would be cool to preserve an archive of the original NEB website. ENJOY!

link: New England Bouldering Archive


bobs · Jan 5

Here is another project (#5 in the photo below) that is waiting for a strongman to step up and send.  On the backside of the Egg, left of Chemical (#4) and right of the undercling start of Neil's Nuts (#6), start sitting with left hand on a crimp in the crack and right hand on foothold crimp of Chemical.  Fire up right hand to the Chemical pocket and then move straight up and over. 

Dave Graham and friends worked on this for a couple days back in the late 90s.  Dave had his hand on the Chemical pocket several times but couldn't finish it off.  He thought it might be around V12 and mentioned using the name "The Automator" for it.  However, he shortly thereafter moved on to Colorado and used that name on a hard problem in RMNP.

JoeM · Jan 4 · Tags: lincoln woods, project
Hey guys nice job on reviving this site. Looks awesome and is working real nice!
jamier · Jan 4 · Tags: nice!

The projects post got me thinking I climbed this project back in
September and it hasn't been touched since. I originally graded it V8. I
suspect that I have graded it incorrectly and it should be V6/7. I would
greatly appreciate it if i could get some input grade-wise.

Location: Pawtuckaway, NH

Area: Round Pond

Boulder: The Hemlock Boulder

Line: the arching dihedrals right of cream

Can't Make Vidio Post Right  (òᴥó)

Link to Video


islandkid29 · Dec 23 '11

So I know there are some strong boulderers out there that need a kind of dating service to meet up with some hard open projects in New England.  I'm going to attempt to get some info out on some hard project that need some loving.  Below, is a stunning beauty of a roof project.  Easy sit start to a good hold leads to a long move (pictured below) out of the roof to a pinch with a small seam.  From here, it's anyone's guess as to how this one will go.  Location: Gilbert Hills State Forest in Foxboro, Massachusetts.  Comment if interested and I can get you directions (it isn't that easy to find).  Also, comment if you know of any lonely open projects in the New England area.

JoeM · Dec 23 '11 · Comments: 19 · Tags: new england, projects