Newsfeed
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lax4mike How are the bugs at pawtuckaway??
Jonahag they were like 40% bad at Blair woods on Friday.
JoeM i prefer to say that the bugs were 60% good... -
- May 14
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Pandagirl Have a 9 year old daughter who loves to climb, especially bouldering. She's starting to wonder how good she is. Any youth bouldering comps coming up in northern NE - We live in Maine.captainmo likes this
jasonh Not sure where you are in Maine but there are great folks at the gym in Portland. The bouldering comp season is September to January and there are USA Climbing comps around New England during that time period.
www.usaclimbing.org
captainmo When I was up at school @ Bates we used to hit the YMCA circuit to round up prizes.. also might be worth a look... - May 13
- May 11
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Jonahag <iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/30235472" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
captainmo killin it... really like the sound track actually...
Jonahag I wish this weather lasted longer... - May 5
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cgrodzki created new group
- May 4
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Uncle Climax (P'way)Hayden Miller climbing Uncle Climax. This may be the only footage of this problem ever recorded. I've never seen anyone even near this thing.
brianc Roof of rumors is along Bolton notch road, I think the 8th grade boulder is somewhere near upper west (?), and the moon tower is at Smuggs (down near the Stowe-side picnic area/hells brook parking area)
JoeM that video of bigger at farley is nuts!!!
Jonahag New England boulder fiend, Hayden Miller, left us today for a better place. The west...
Finally the glory shall be ours! - May 3
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- May 2
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brianc Gluey, any way to optimize this social page thing for mobile OS? It's a little clunky othe iPad.
bobs I'm not sure, I'll look into it and see how it looks on my iPad also.
thatscandlepin Looks ungood on a phone as well. Width issues, mostly. Doesn't look like a real adaptable design, so maybe a mobile template if there is one?
captainmo quit ur day job bob... focus a little more on NEB, geeze...
- May 1
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brianc #1. This is kinda funny.
#2. This is all sorts of dumb.
#3. This is stolen from someone else. Again.
http://www.neclimbs.com/...9152f140756d15d84046
- Apr 30
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brianc a blatant internet regurgitation of someone else's posting, but a goodie nonetheless:
http://www.athleticka.net/...n-gem-massachusetts/
JoeM wtf are there pics of cali bouldering doing in a Mass article???
JoeM and, the description for Hammond Pond is actually for Quincy Quarries...
Malnuboy There was a link on that site about two girls that found a spycam in their apartment....almost clicked. Someone else please check out and report back. -
captainmo Mount Katahdin - Anyone done any of the routes on the headwall?
Edge I've been all over the headwall, but only during four winter trips. Amazing place!
Jonahag A friend who goes up regularly told me they recently reworked some of the ridiculous rules that were trouble in the past. Sounds sort of epic!
captainmo winter trips... geeze I bet that's freakin cold!!! Basically just looking for some recommendations / thoughts on how difficult a day of routes is? I would like to bring my girlfriend up a route or two while we're at Chimney Pond for 5 days... She's a 5.6/5.7 climber. -
rogerk I'm in the market for a new large pad. I came across this recent review and thought others might find it useful:
http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/bouldering-crash-pad
jasonh Roger - right here in VT Stonelick -http://stonelickclimbing.com/
best pads, best foam, best design, and made in VT
jasonh We have a Boom and a Yose from stonelick, we also have a revolution, a black diamond, and have landed on Misty, Asana, and Organic. None are even close in quality to the Stonelick.
captainmo a friend just got a stoneclick... haven't heard back from him since he bought it... but i did just get the Organic Big Pad 5"er... and it's really impressive... I have put it to the test and am VERY happy! - Apr 26
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rogerk Yes, there is quality rock in Paterson NJ. But I'm not sure I like bouldering when there is a police shootout happening just over the miniridge from where the rock is.
thatscandlepin pics or it didn't happen
rogerk Pics? I was huddled behind a tree waiting for it to end.
Where was Garret Mountain Reservation. Interesting that it never made the news. I guess it says something for the frequency of shootouts in Patterson.
thatscandlepin Where's your sense of adventure? Boulderers are such sissies. - Apr 24
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JoeM We are probably just going to let the ledge burn?!?!?!?
http://www.climberism.com/fire-at-farley-ledge/
thatscandlepin sounds pretty callous, but what else are they going to do (in the absence of a chopper or fire plane)? Hope it wasn't bad.
captainmo burn baby burn...
brianc silly rabbit, bolts don't burn. - Apr 23
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- Apr 19
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EyeCatchThunderBolts So i just arrived in Quechee VT, snyone have some bouldering beta for me for what's close? I'd prefer not to have to drive an hour to Rumney so if there are good boulders nearby in the v6-v9 range (or anythingbelow thats worth it)i would be in your debt. If you need a v12 spotter for any highballs, I'm your man.
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brianc call me old fashioned, but that's what i like out of a bouldering vid... beta!
captainmo ya agreed.. much better... nice run of the classics!
thatscandlepin I would like to do all of those bouldering problems. That would be quite fun, I think.
- Apr 18
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JoeM Some really good pics of McKenzie Pond on this blog: http://www.weekendbouldering.com/2012/04/closure.html
- Apr 17
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M_Sprague The Lost Boulder, Arcadia, RI:
What it is the name of the V11 left hand version of Ground Zero and who did the FA? I was posting up beta pictures of the boulder in mountainproject yesterday and would like to see this listed. I presume it starts on the same low rail, works up to the sharp edge then shoots up and left to an edge and tops out. If the FAist would like to post it up, that would be great, also some action shots from the boulder would be cool.
Condition note - The blackflies are just coming out there, but the stone still felt good yesterday afternoon. If you want to get out there before the bugs get horrendous, I would suggest going right away and bringing spray. The trail from the pond to the fire road has overgrown, so you will have to bushwhack some, but the water is very low so no problem with the stream. I'll flag it if I go again.
mjgiossi ty landman did the fa i dont know what its called though
Jonahag Mark, it's a weird sorta squat/stand start that Ty Landman did. My buddy, who did ground zero and everything else with ease couldn't make a single move in prime conditions... might be real hard.
P.S. You are a hero for finding/posting all the RI stuff.
M_Sprague Hmm, I guess you or somebody else will have to post it up then. I can't figure out exactly where you are talking about. Maybe further left than I was thinking? If you know what the beta is and want to post, we could always call it the Landman route until we learn the real name. There is definitely a left hand finish to Ground Zero. I may be nuts, but I think a super hard line may go up the rounded arete between Finders Keepers and the right hand finish of Drive By. -
LT11Includes footage of a classic V11 in Connecticut.bobs likes this
thatscandlepin This was pretty not that good. It was also pretty totally free. So, lose - win.
M_Sprague It kind of makes me think I need to go get a haircut. The whole thing of trying to make a spectacle of yourself and be a rock star is so old. I'd rather just see a well filmed version of some friends saying 'hey, here is a great area and some cool boulder problems. Check 'em out'
captainmo I'd rather just see a well filmed version of some friends saying 'hey, here is a great area and some cool boulder problems. Check 'em out'
totally agree with that... im sure we've got plenty of new areas developed recently in the CT, RI, MA area to do a vid - Apr 16
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tomh Anyone know some good spots around Williamstown? -
jasonh More insanely fantastic rock in VT ...Limestone cave:
4 members like this
captainmo Hows the development been going? you guys got any of the cliffs sussed out for climbing? How are the caves? you guys doing some good development?
brianc emailed jason for a tour weeks ago. no dice.
jasonh Brian - did not get the email. We were out in Colorado the last two weeks. I could give you a tour any weekday afternoon evening or some Sunday afternoon. Haven't been out to the big cave in a few weeks as we've been on the road. We've just been cleaning and haven't really climbed the big one yet. Still finding tons of boulders. - Apr 12
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bennythebutcher Lynn Woods fire. So sad. Thankfully it doesn't affect any of the bouldering activity there.
rogerk What's sad about it?
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captainmo Adopt-a-crag event in CT... if we were to host one which CT crag would benefit most in your opinion?
- Apr 9
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bobs created new group
- Apr 4
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rogerk uploaded 7 new photos to WR Boulders album
and 2 more - Apr 2
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richards I live in dracut ma. Looking for some good bouldering near me. Just moved here so all sujestions are welcome.
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vincentc Do anyone have more info on "Pretty Bloc Swag" in P-way? beta, pictures, video?
Jonahag Do you climb highball v12 with mantle cruxes??? If so get psyched! This is the line for you.
It starts on the sloper rail, moves right to a hard gaston... match... blast to arete crimps.... tension moves to a scary loose jug... left to a nipple.... hard hard mantle.
vincentc Thanks :) I'll start by working the first moves and then we'll see, probably a little to hard for me - Mar 30
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bobs Action Alert: Municipal Liability Protection Law On the Chopping Block
http://newtown.patch.com/...n-the-chopping-block
The protection given to municipal lands for recreational use last year is in danger of being revoked. Any hope we had of getting legitimate access to the awesome bouldering fields on municiapl land in CT is in danger once again. It kind of boggles my mind why any politician would think this is a good idea, except if they are motivated by lobbying from private attorneys chomping at the bit to make buck off of someone falling off their bicycle.
A link to the proposed changes:
http://www.cga.ct.gov/2012/TOB/S/2012SB-00445-R00-SB.htm
The ONLY Public Hearing will be Thursday 29th in the Legislative Office Bldg (LOB) next to the State Capitol Bldg at 10:00am., so please send your emails, letters, and/or make your calls ASAP (especially if your legislators sit on the Judiciary Committee).
thatscandlepin According to the thread over on mountain project, it's not as dire as it sounds: http://www.mountainproject.com/...w-bill-on-/107533292
Not that that means there are no problems with this proposal, but it doesn't look like the end of the world.
bobs What about this part of the proposed law change: "(2) "Land" means land, roads, water, watercourses, private ways and buildings, structures, and machinery or equipment when attached to the realty, except that if the owner is a municipality, political subdivision of the state, municipal corporation, special district or water or sewer district" - Mar 26
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3 Problems from P'way & tha GunksWant to see someone make Dopeman more difficult for themselves? Want to see footage of the somewhat obscure Chuckie's Torture? Heard of the Gunks? Wat...bobs likes this - Mar 24
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M_Sprague I ran into Wickaboxet Management Area (RI) this afternoon to look for the Broken Moon boulder, a sweet 20 foot egg. I found it and a bunch more undeveloped ones. There is good stuff there. I can't wait to go back with a pad, brush and more time. The boulders are not near the main ledge. I grabbed a few photos and posted them up in MP
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/rhode-island/106842810
joec likes this
brianc the two largest boulders were the one with Broken Moon (classic crapmypants v6 top out) and something else I can't remember just a short walk along the jeep road from Broken Moon (to looker's right of Broken Moon). scattered other boulders offered up some short problems. miss the box.
M_Sprague You should come on down and refresh your memories. Dana posted up a few of the routes to start and I put directions to the Broken Moon and coordinates. The other boulders are basically running to the north from it. If you hunt that way you will run back in to the jeep trail (Welch Hollow rd), with a couple boulders on the east side of it.
The parking on Welch Rd is really minimal, so if you have a posse, please try to carpool for the last bit or hike in from the main Wickaboxet parking (only 10 minutes more).
I am going to try to get out there this weekend (not sure what day yet), but I also want to hit up a boulder in Arcadia to finish a project. If anyone wants to meet up, send me your phone # and I can let you know when I am going.
M_Sprague The stuff on the Broken Moon boulder is haaard! Broken Moon is excellent and completely spanked me the other day. Also, if you are looking for a really hard (double digit) project in RI, this is a boulder to go too. Bring you sloper ability, power and crimp strength. Also bring a ladder and brushes to get the fine coating of lichen off. -
miker somewhat recently the gaston crimp used by some people at the bottom of rump2jump broke pretty good, its a significantly worse hold now and alternate beta for r2j is almost absolutely necessary if this was the way you had done it in the past, but it also makes clutch significantly harder, has anyone repeated it yet since it broke? seems to me that it might finally make kemples guide calling it v9 actually be right now...
brianc Likely has something to do with your 5+ years of projecting that damn thing. - Mar 23
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One Week in the South (HP40 and the Stone Fort)Two New Englanders and a transplanted Southerner head to the dirty south for a week of climbing on boulders. Good times. Posted half for vanity and...bobs likes this
thatscandlepin Not that anyone cares, but I solved the mystery of the missing vimeo thumbnails. Apparently you need the version of the embed code that includes the text link below the video (even though it won't show up when you post here). I guess the board needs the link to find the image for the thumbnail or something. So there you go.
bobs nice video and good find on the video linking business
krisd Guys! The bouldering spots in the vid look awesome! Nice climbs! - Mar 21
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islandkid29 created new group
New Hampshire BoulderersThe super amazing boulderers of the granite stateTotal users: 10travisd just joinedtravisd likes this - Mar 20
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captainmo So Crashpads... got two old regular sized Misty's that I love... was looking for a single big ass pad. I asked Misty about their Magnum but they said it is only available for lcoal pickup in Boone, NC and would give me a tour of some local boulders and the factory too.. pretty rad, but I'm not headed to Boone anytime soon (though I probably should). So... that left me hunting for other options that seem to be highly rated...
1. Organics' Big Pad
2. Voodoo Highball 5000
3. Flashed Shogun
4. Flashed Ronin
Anyone here have a not worn out Magnum they want to sell or any good opinions to steer me one way or another? Looking for a big highball pad for solo missions.
Peace,
Morgan -
climberism Have an original video of a northeast climb? Want to win cash, prizes and prestige? Submit your video to Climberism Magazine and show us what you got! This is the first time we're doing this, so I hope all of you can help make it a success. We've got some great sponsors working with us including Mammut, Climb High, and the American Alpine Club. The more videos we get the better!
Make sure to check out the official rules before submitting your video. Good luck!
http://www.climberism.com/video-contest/
bobs likes this -
DSavoie So, went to Pway this weekend.
Are the road closure in the park - leading to Boulder Natural parking - temporary or permanent ? Is the horse farm parking the only one ??
Other topic: how is Mackenzie Pond ? Is everything free of ice/snow ? - Mar 16
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M_Sprague I sent the sit to Treehugger (not sure of grade) and put up an alt finish to Hroom V5 on the Found boulder in Arcadia, RI yesterday. They are both good new problems. Somebody chalked the shit out of every hold on it and the Hudson Boulder and didn't bother to brush it off afterwards. Be considerate of the other users of the area and brush off the excess chalk when you are done there, please. Most of the other users are not climbers and the chalk bombing is kind of jarring.
- Mar 12
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Jonahag Gilbert Hills = hardest slab climbing in America.
danas Where else did you check out? Did you see the trees, twins, kung fu, the 45 wall?
Jonahag i only saw the graffiti boulder... the little roof choss thing by arrowhead... arrowhead....that big wall with the v5 twin crack line & v9 project.... Phantom Tower... and Kung Fu
Other than Kung Fu & Phantom Tower I'm not all that psyched. Did I miss the greatness?
We should probably arrange for a sea of pads and put down some more lines on Phantom Tower!
brianc lots of love for he phantom tower. never did sack up for it. some really tall stuff at the warm up boulders. - Mar 9
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M_Sprague Hey all, I wanted to let you know that I and another guy, Jeff, have been doing a bunch of cleaning and new routing down at Mt. Tom in southern RI. There is a ton of potential here. The area was more popular in the ‘80s when the Rhody Loadies would climb here, bouldering and top roping, but then it was left fallow mostly until Mike Golub, Dana and friends did a few things. Now that we all have pads, a lot of the short ledges are great for bouldering and highballing. If you are into rescrubbing old routes and putting up new ones, you should check it out. It is the second biggest and best area in RI, after LW and fairly close to the Lost Boulder. I have posted some info up on Mountainproject. I am concentrating on cleaning a bunch of easier stuff first, but there are all grades. Shoot me a message if you would like a tour or more information. With some work this will be a great alternative to LW.
joec likes this
captainmo BadAss Mark!!! u da man! If ur ever down in SW CT I'd be stoked to show you around some of the new bouldering areas around our way!
Jonahag Back to the gayrage foo
M_Sprague OK, after checking out more of the local stone this area is not the best, but there is a fair amount of good stuff. It's concentrated and is easy to get to - Mar 6
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DSavoie Gunks, Pawtuckaway, Lincoln Woods = status ? Dry ? Aiming at a weekend trip, and I'd like to get good conditions ! Where to ?
DSavoie What about McPond ?? Is most of the snow gone, or I'll have to wait before tackling my projects ?
M_Sprague Conditions were great in southern RI yesterday. Everything was nice and dry with good friction.
jasonh I would bet that Mcpond is still snowed in...we still have tons of snow in the mtns in VT
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vincentc created new group
Quebec boulderersWhen the frenchies invade the boulderfield... Sorry ;)Total users: 2DSavoie just joined
M_Sprague We dont mind you frenchies. Just bring your hot women ;) -
Some moderates from Blair (P'way)On beautiful Presidents' weekend 2012 I scuffled my way up some moderates at Blair. It's a stunning performance. Prepare to be amazed.
thatscandlepin BTW, anyone know why thumbnails don't always come through to the front page on video posts?
bobs How are you adding videos? Through the Video link and using the embed code from Vimeo?
thatscandlepin Yup. I grab the embed code from the video page on vimeo and submit it here through the add a video page.
